好英语网探秘为教皇缝制神职服饰的裁缝
For a select group of Catholics, the news most eagerly awaited from the conclave of cardinals gathering in Rome to elect a new pope is less about who that man is than how big. They are the craftsmen of Ditta Annibale Gammarelli, papal tailors since the 18th century.
红衣主教们聚集在罗马召开秘密会议选举新教皇；此时一群精心挑选出来的天主教徒们也在热切等待着结果，他们当然关心新教皇是谁，但是他们更关心的是新教皇的高矮胖瘦。他们是来自迪塔·安妮巴莱·加马雷利(Ditta Annibale Gammarelli)的手艺人，自18世纪以来，他们一直是教皇的裁缝。
Immediately after Pope Benedict XVI announced his plans to retire, the craftsmen at Gammarelli set to work on their challenging Goldilocks task. Already, in a snug, wood-paneled two-story shop on a side street near the Pantheon in Rome and in an area that is to clerical garb what Madison Avenue is to Armani and Prada, the master cutters and tailors have gone about making three sets of papal garments, in sizes small, medium and large. None of the likely current candidates, as it happens, is any heftier than that. Pope John XXIII, who died in 1963, was the last pontiff to wear an XL.
在教皇本笃十六世(Pope Benedict XVI)宣布退休之后，加马雷利的技师们就马上开始制作富有挑战性的金凤花教皇法衣。罗马万神殿附近有一条小巷，这条小巷对神职服饰的意义，就像麦迪逊大道对阿玛尼和普拉达的意义一样。小巷里有一家舒适的两层小店，装潢着木板，里面的主剪和裁缝们已经为未来教皇准备好了大、中、小号三套法衣。目前的候选人里似乎是正好没有更胖的了。1963年去世的教皇约翰二十三世(Pope John XXIII)是最后一个穿XL号的教皇。
The moment a plume of white smoke emerges above the Sistine Chapel, signifying a new pope has been chosen, that man will be dressed in the garments of office: a floor-length white wool cassock, a white sash, a white skullcap and, if he chooses, a scarlet mozzetta, as the waist-length garment worn over the robe is called. Then he will be whisked to a balcony overlooking St. Peter’s Square to greet the faithful gathered below.
西斯廷教堂(Sistine Chapel)上空升起白烟就意味着选出了新教皇，他即刻就要穿上就职礼服：一件白色曳地毛料法衣，一条白色的腰带，一顶白色的无檐帽，如果他愿意的话，还可以穿上猩红色的带兜帽短斗篷(mozzetta)，它指的是穿在长袍外面、长及腰部的披肩。然后他将快速赶往一个可以俯瞰圣彼得广场的露台，向下面聚集着的信徒挥手致意。
洛伦佐·加马雷利的店铺也给红衣主教和其他牧师制作服装，从袜子到帽子，无所不包。图为一位店员。
Accordingly, Gammarelli will have two sets at the ready in each of three sizes and, since it is still winter, a red velvet cape with a white fur border, a cloak that is essentially one-size-fits-all.
相应地，加马雷利店铺还要分别用三个型号准备两套服装。因为此时仍是冬天，还要备一件带白色毛边的红色天鹅绒披肩，这种披肩可以适合各种身材。
The shoes are, as always, a challenge, Lorenzo Gammarelli said by telephone this week. Thus there will be a selection of red papal loafers in all sizes to prepare for every contingency.
洛伦佐·加马雷利(Lorenzo Gammarelli)本周在接受电话采访时说，鞋子一向是个难点。因此，他们要准备各种型号的红色教皇平底鞋，以应对各种可能性。
While head-to-toe dressing may be frowned upon by fashionable civilians in the upper reaches of the clerical world, it has long been a sign of arrival to order all one’s sacerdotal garments from Gammarelli. The shop has, after all, dressed the clergy since the days when Rome was still a papal domain, its clientele largely drawn from the aristocracy recruited for its elite by the Roman Catholic Church. Every pope in the last century has been outfitted by Gammarelli, with one exception. Pius XII, who reigned from 1939 to 1958, preferred to use his own private tailor.
尽管神职界上层的时尚人士可能不赞成从头到脚进行妆扮，但是长久以来，在加马雷利店铺订制所有神职服饰已经成了惯例。毕竟，这家店从罗马由教廷统治的时期开始，就一直为牧师制作服装，当时它的客户主要是罗马天主教会招募的精英贵族。上个世纪所有教皇的装束都是加马雷利制作的，只有一个例外——1939年至1958年担任教皇的庇护十二世(Pius XII)喜欢用自己的私人裁缝。
Like a great deal else in the Roman Catholic Church, there has been a trend toward simplicity in priestly garments. Just as Benedict XVI’s predecessor, John Paul II, did away with the sedia gestatoria, the portable throne in which popes were traditionally transported on the shoulders of the faithful, the ornately embroidered robes, heavy silks and rich brocades favored by the clergy well into the 19th century have largely been supplanted by more subdued designs.
就像罗马天主教会的很多其他方面一样，神职服饰也在简化。本笃十六世的前任约翰·保罗二世取消了教皇御座——这个御座以前由信徒们抬着，供教皇乘坐。之后，那些直到19世纪还深受神职人员喜爱的华丽的刺绣长袍、厚重的丝绸和华贵的织锦，也大多被更朴素的设计所取代。
When Benedict XVI, now known as “pope emeritus,” left the Vatican by helicopter for Castel Gandolfo, he was dressed in a simple white ankle-length Gammarelli cassock, a white (“Our white is really ivory,” Mr. Gammarelli said) skullcap and a down-stuffed white anorak.
当“荣退教皇”(pope emeritus)本笃十六世乘坐直升飞机离开梵蒂冈前往冈多菲堡时，他穿着简单的白色及踝加马雷利法衣，头戴白色（“我们的白色实际上是象牙白，”加马雷利先生说）无檐帽，外穿白色羽绒夹克。
While the tailor also makes clothes for civilians (Mes Chaussettes Rouge, a French company, is licensed by Gammarelli to sell ecclesiastical socks — red for cardinals, purple for bishops, white for the pope — favored by fashionable types like Hamish Bowles, an editor-at-large of Vogue), orders tend to back up during rare events like a conclave, when cardinals from throughout the far-flung realms of Catholicism exploit the opportunity to refresh their wardrobes.
裁缝们也为平民做衣服（“我的红袜子”[Mes Chaussettes Rouge]是一家法国公司，它获得了加马雷利的授权，可以出售神职袜子——红衣主教穿的红色袜子，主教穿的紫色袜子，以及教皇穿的白袜子，这些袜子深受时尚人士的喜爱，比如《Vogue》的自由编辑哈密什·博尔斯[Hamish Bowles]）。在特殊活动期间，比如举行教皇选举会议期间，庞大的天主教王国里的红衣主教们纷纷借此机会充实他们的衣橱，订单就会格外多。
As a staff member once said to a reporter paying a visit to the shop, cardinals come to Gammarelli, Gammarelli goes to the pope.
正如一位店员曾向参观店铺的记者所说，红衣主教们去找加马雷利，加马雷利去找教皇。
That is, Gammarelli does if summoned. Whereas Benedict XVI was something of a clotheshorse, a Gammarelli tailor said (speaking on condition of anonymity for fear of offending the shop’s most important patrons), John Paul II in comparison had little concern for what he wore.
也就是说，加马雷利按照旨意行事。加马雷利的一位裁缝（他不愿透露自己的姓名，担心触怒了该店最重要的客户）说，本笃十六世有点像个晒衣架，而约翰·保罗二世则几乎不关心自己穿什么衣服。
Perhaps because he was so busy making pastoral visits outside Italy (well over 100), writing books, issuing encyclicals and canonizing more saints than any pope had for centuries, John Paul II preferred to leave his measurements and a standing annual order with Gammarelli for two cassocks of ivory-colored lightweight wool, to accommodate Rome’s steamy weather.
也许是因为约翰·保罗忙着出国进行宗教拜访（超过100次），写书，发布通谕，追封圣徒——他追封的圣徒的个数比几个世纪以来任何教皇追封的都多。所以他喜欢只留下自己的尺码，每年从加马雷利订购两件象牙色的轻质羊毛法衣，以应对罗马潮湿的气候。
Whether the new pope will turn out to be a sartorial minimalist is perhaps not the chief concern of a church in considerable turmoil. Yet given the increasing potency of image in an Instagram age, the new pope could do worse than to take a cue from the queen of England, another of the world’s enduring symbolic figures, and a woman who gives careful thought to her working wardrobe.
新教皇是否会是服装方面的极简主义者，也许不是正处于巨大动荡中的教会最关心的问题。鉴于在图片社交网络时代，“形象”的影响力变得愈来愈重要，新教皇也许可以学学英国女王，她是世界上另一个持久的象征人物，对自己的职业衣装很是花了一番心思。