好英语网撒切尔的着装既是铠甲，也是宣言
“THE LIPS OF MARILYN MONROE and the eyes of Caligula” was a neat summing up of the “power woman” presented by Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher.
“玛丽莲·梦露(Marilyn Monroe)的嘴唇与卡里古拉（Caligula，古罗马暴君——译注）的眼睛”用来形容玛格丽特·撒切尔(Margaret Thatcher)首相所呈现的“权力女人”形象可谓恰到好处。
The mix of admiration and fear at the smashing of the glass ceiling by any woman who wore the trousers was expressed in the words of the Socialist President François Mitterrand of France in 1984 — during a spat over the European Economic Community budget.
这句话是1984年的时候，出身社会党的法国总统弗朗索瓦·密特朗(François Mitterrand)就欧洲经济共同体预算问题与撒切尔夫人发生争执时所说，它颇能用来代表对于打破玻璃天花板的“穿裤子的女人”的敬畏之情。
玛格丽特·撒切尔夫人在家中试戴帽子，1971年。
Yet Mrs. Thatcher, who died on Monday at 87, did not wear the pantsuits that later became the uniform of women in power from Hillary Rodham Clinton to Angela Merkel, the German chancellor. The British prime minister wore tailored skirt suits with padded shoulders. They were softened by pussycat bows, while luscious pearls played off against Iron Lady lacquered hair. A brooch was pinned to the left lapel (not the right, as worn by Meryl Streep portraying Mrs. Thatcher in the 2011 movie).
从希拉里·罗德姆·克林顿(Hillary Rodham Clinton)到德国总理安格拉·默克尔(Angela Merkel)，长裤套装已成为掌权女性的制服，然而周一去世、享年87岁的撒切尔夫人却并不如此穿着。这位英国首相总是穿着精心裁剪，加有垫肩的裙装；胸前的猫咪蝴蝶结为她平添温柔之感，另有甜美的珍珠首饰衬托“铁娘子”顺滑的头发；左翻领上总是佩着一枚胸针（梅丽尔·斯特里普[Meryl Streep]在2011年的电影中饰演的撒切尔夫人把胸针佩在右翻领上，是不对的）。
As the first major female political leader in the West, Mrs. Thatcher had a look that was scrutinized like no male politician’s who came before her. And the Thatcher look expressed precisely where feminism stood in the 1980s.
作为西方世界第一位重要的女性政治领导人，撒切尔夫人的外貌受到了比以往任何男性政治家更细致的审视。她的外貌恰好能表现出女权主义在20世纪80年代的立场。
If clothes could talk, they would have revealed volumes about an encounter at 10 Downing Street, the prime minister’s historic home of velvet drapes and polished furniture. At a fashion gathering in 1984, Mrs. T, in her floor-swishing skirt suit, set off with a polka-dot floppy bow, faced the designer Katharine Hamnett, who came dressed as a defiant punk in scruffy sneakers and a giant T-shirt printed with a political statement about nuclear missiles.
唐宁街10号是历史悠久的首相官邸，里面布满丝绒帷幕与精美家具，如果服装能说话，它们可能会透露关于那里一次会面的大量信息——1984年的一次时尚界聚会上，撒切尔夫人穿着曳地裙装，胸前饰着松软的圆点蝴蝶结，会见凯瑟琳·哈姆尼特(Katharine Hamnett)，这位设计师穿着邋遢的帆布鞋和印有反核弹政治宣言的肥大T恤，完全是一派挑衅的朋克模样。
Mrs. Thatcher, with her no-nonsense style, might have been expected to ignore comments about how she dressed, especially ones that made fun of those bows and her ever-present handbag.
撒切尔夫人总是一付干脆利落的态度，人们也许觉得她不会介意那些对她穿着的品头评足，特别是那些关于她的蝴蝶结和手包的玩笑。
Yet she once told me that being elected to the International Best Dressed List in 1988 — as an influential role model “of classic middle-of-the-road elegance” — was “one of the greatest moments of my life.” (I didn’t dare to ask whether the others were being elected as the first female prime minister, having her twins or winning the Falklands war.)
但她曾经告诉我，1988年作为有影响的人物代表，以“经典而中庸的优雅风格”入围“国际最佳着装名单”(International Best Dressed List)是“我一生中最棒的时刻之一”——我没敢问其他时刻都是什么，当选第一位女性首相、生下双胞胎儿女和赢得马岛战争算不算。
Mrs. Thatcher expressed in her persona exactly where working women stood in the 1980s: on low-heeled court shoes and in tailored suits that were a carapace of protection in what was still essentially a man’s world.
撒切尔夫人的形象确实表现出20世纪80年代工作女性的样子：在那个实质上仍由男人统治的世界里，低跟船鞋和精心剪裁的套装是她们用来保护自己的硬壳。
The prime minister, who served from 1979 to 1990, took an approach that fitted her background as a grocer’s daughter from an industrial town.
撒切尔夫人于1979年至1990年担任首相，她采取姿态去贴合自己的背景——英格兰工业小镇上一个杂货店主的女儿。
She would choose from a selection sent to her by the British retailer Marks & Spencer and off-the-peg outfits from Aquascutum, which she considered a solid heritage brand. She credited her best-dressed award to the Aquascutum wardrobe, built around a camel coat with a sable collar for her trip to see Mikhail Gorbachev in Moscow in 1987, when she trumped the overblown wardrobe of his wife, Raisa.
这位首相会从英国零售商Marks & Spencer百货送来的服装中挑选衣服，也会穿雅格狮丹(Aquascutum)的成衣，她觉得雅格狮丹是历史悠久的品牌。她说自己最好的衣服就是雅格狮丹的一套服装，围绕一件带貂皮领的驼色大衣设计，是她1987年出访莫斯科会见米哈伊尔·戈尔巴乔夫(Mikhail Gorbachev)时穿的，靠这件衣服，她胜过了身穿夸张套装的戈尔巴乔夫夫人赖莎(Raisa)。
Would Mrs. Thatcher, were she a 21st-century leader, have dressed differently and less severely? After all, she was positively 1950s girlish, showing her softer side, when she wore floral dresses to hang out with President Ronald Reagan, and her evening style was fashioned by Tomasz Starzewski, a Polish/British couturier whose claim to fame was to have dressed Princess Diana.
如果撒切尔夫人是一位21世纪的国家领导人，她的着装会有所不同吗，会不会不那么庄重？毕竟她有着20世纪50年代的女孩风格，要表现出自己柔软的一面，和罗纳德·里根(Ronald Reagan)总统在一起时会穿花朵长裙。她的晚装由托马茨·斯塔泽斯基(Tomasz Starzewski)设计，他是一位波兰/英国女装设计师，以为戴安娜王妃设计服装而成名。
But in a 1980s world where men still ruled, her clothes were a both a shield and a statement about female power.
但20世纪80年代仍然是男人统治的天下，她的服装既是盾牌，也是女权的宣言。
Or as she once put it: “Please don’t use the word ‘tough.’ People might get the impression that I don’t care. And I do care. Very deeply. Resilient, I think.”
或者正如她自己曾经说过的：“请不要使用‘强硬’(tough)这个词来形容我。这会让人们觉得我漠不关心，但我确实有深切的关怀。是‘坚韧’(resilient)吧，我想。”