好英语网经济崩溃中的男装周
MILAN — Eye-popping color, upscale vacation clothes and rich accessories dominate the summer 2013 men’s wear season — yet Italy is said to be in financial meltdown.
米兰——高光色彩、高级度假时装、丰富配饰，在2013年夏季男装季中占领了统治地位——不过据说，意大利正处在经济崩溃中。
In Milan, it is as if those urgent encounters between the German chancellor, Angela Merkel, and the Italian prime minister, Mario Monti, have never happened. Spread out the welcome mat! Bring on the Asian tourists! And let the luxury good times roll.
在米兰，人们会感觉德国总理安吉拉·默克尔(Angela Merkel)与意大利总理马里奥·蒙蒂(Mario Monti)之间的数次紧急磋商从未发生过。将擦鞋垫翻出来！请亚洲游客走进来！让奢华的美好岁月滚滚而来。
2013春夏米兰男装周。托马斯·迈尔设计的Bottega Veneta；伊塔罗·祖切利设计的Calvin Klein；马西米拉诺·乔尼蒂设计的 Salvatore Ferragamo。
Although there are severe problems in the euro zone, an upbeat message ran through the weekend shows.
尽管欧元区仍然面临着严峻的问题，在周末的时装秀上却传递出了令人振奋的讯息。
Jil Sander’s return to her brand was a pure and polished affirmation of her belief in sophisticated minimalism, stroked with color.
吉尔·桑达(Jil Sander)重返她创立的品牌，此举坚定而优雅地表明了她对于精致的极简主义、对轻柔色彩的信念。
Donatella Versace brought on the gladiators, calling her collection of gilt and pugilist glamour “combat rock.” (Think gilded strappings worn over the new Versace underwear line.)
多纳泰拉·范思哲(Donatella Versace)领来了一群角斗士，她称这个充溢着金色与拳击手魅力的季列为“搏击摇滚”（设想一下，穿着新一季的范思哲内衣系列，外面系上金色的皮带）。
Salvatore Ferragamo was doused in color. And even the streamlined outerwear from Burberry’s Christopher Bailey had a metallic glint.
萨尔瓦托勒·菲拉格慕(Salvatore Ferragamo)则是一派浓墨重彩。甚至连克里斯托弗·贝利(Christopher Bailey)设计的巴宝莉(Burberry)的流线型大衣都流动着金属光泽。
Ms. Sander’s return to her own label after an absence of seven years was more than respectable: It was a clear, clean and precise rendition of everything the designer holds dear.
桑达在阔别七年后重返自己的品牌，此举不仅仅令人肃然起敬：这是一场清晰、明确而又精准的演出，将设计师所钟爱的一切倾情呈现出来。
Far from an ode to the past, the Jil Sander man has grown up from his boyish beginnings in the 1990s — even if there was a faint reference in those sober shorts to what might have been men’s casual wear in the German designer’s postwar childhood.
吉尔·桑达的男装完全没有歌颂过去，而是从20世纪90年代的少年形象成长了起来——尽管那些朴素的短裤能让人隐约联想起这位德国设计师在“二战”后度过的童年时代，当时流行的男士休闲装束或许就是这样的。
An impressive variety of ideas included graphic Jacquard patterns inspired by the contemporary artists Blinky Palermo and Robert Mangold. A honeycomb effect was another classy way of creating geometric print.
在这个系列中可以看到不少令人难忘的创意。其中一个是受到当代艺术家布林奇·帕勒莫(Blinky Palermo)和罗伯特·曼戈尔德 (Robert Mangold)启发创作的大印花图案。蜂巢效应是创造几何形印花图案的另外一种经典方式。
“Clarity, integrity and sophisticated even when it is simple,” said the designer, who proved that she could bring her own authority to the brand she founded 40 years ago.
“即便是在追求简约的同时，也要确保清晰、完整与精致，”设计师这样说。她已经证明能为这个在40年前创立的品牌带来个人的权威性。
The vivid, metallic pieces that ran through a sober Burberry Prorsum show were a smart way of lightening up the collection’s serious side.
在朴实的巴宝莉·珀松(Burberry Prorsum)发布会上充斥着鲜艳、金属色调的服饰，巧妙地淡化了这个系列严肃的一面。
“Come rain or shine” was how Mr. Bailey labeled his chic severity, as slim, dark suits were given a flash of brightly colored metallic sheen or one of those signature raincoats appeared in shocking pink or cyber blue.
贝利为这个既时髦又严肃的系列取名为“不论晴雨”。修身、颜色深沉的西装闪现出了明亮而多彩的金属光芒，又如其中的招牌雨衣，竟然使用的是惊人的粉色或艳蓝色面料。
The designer said the title was an obvious allusion to Burberry as a rainwear company.
设计师说，这个名字是在明确提示大家，巴宝莉是家靠防雨服装起家的公司。
“But I like the idea more philosophically, thinking about the serious part of the collection that is very authentic and sartorial, classic and traditionally constructed,” Mr. Bailey said. “It is important to build up something more positive but with a certain gravitas.”
“但我希望这个理念可以更具哲理，会让人联想起这个系列严肃的一面，那就是它非常真实，手工精致，它的结构是经典而传统的，”贝利说：“能创作出更加纯粹、同时不失庄重的服装，这一点很重要。”
The lightning strikes amid the suits and the military sportswear hit just the right jolt in a collection that gave a cool edge — give or take weird metallic sandals — to the classics.
在西装与军装式运动装之间划过一道闪电，恰恰是巧妙的一击，为经典带来了酷的一面——无论模特们是否穿着奇怪的金属色凉鞋。
“Back to our roots!” exclaimed Stefano Gabbana, referring to his design partner Domenico Dolce’s Sicilian background, which was the essence of their Dolce & Gabbana show.
“追溯我们的根基！”史蒂法诺·加百纳(Stefano Gabbana)这样呼唤，他指的是设计搭档多梅尼科·多尔切(Domenico Dolce)出身西西里岛的背景，而这正是他们这场Dolce & Gabbana发布会的精髓。
Noble, touching and truly authentic, the models were serenaded on stage by a band redolent of the stones and scrub of a Sicilian village.
这场发布会高贵、感人而又十分真实，模特们在歌声中被唤上伸展台，现场演唱的乐队让人联想起了西西里小乡村青石板和灌木丛依稀散发出的芳香。
A family range of figures, drawn from across the southern Italian region, walked the runway: small boys with short legs and sturdy menfolk. They mostly wore shorts, in 1950s style, cut into the waist with a widening leg.
走在伸展台上的模特们看起来像是一家人，他们是从意大利南部选拔出来的：有迈着小短腿的男孩子，也有身材强壮的男人。大部分人都穿着20世纪50年代风格的短裤，中腰设计，裤管肥大。
At first it seemed it was the emotional atmosphere rather than the clothes that counted. Yet this was a well-thought-out range of sportswear — the square-cut, deep-sleeve tops offering a new proportion, the shape underlined by horizontal stripes. This fine show seemed rooted in the fertile earth of the Dolce & Gabbana heritage.
乍一看，让人感觉其情感氛围的重要性超过了衣服本身。但这个系列的运动装事实上是精心设计的产物——方型剪裁、深袖笼的上衣提供了一种新的服装比例，直条纹进一步强调了轮廓。这场精彩的发布会看来根植于Dolce & Gabbana品牌传统肥沃的土壤中。
Blinding David Hockney colors like swimming pool turquoise with coral and leaf green were not the only innovation at Salvatore Ferragamo. The designer Massimiliano Giornetti also dared to change the footwear from sober leather to vividly colored sneakers, which could mean yellow, green and red all in one shoe.
在萨尔瓦托勒·菲拉格慕的秀场上，充满令人眩目的大卫·霍克尼(David Hockney，摄影家、画家——译注)色彩，那些好象游泳池一般的绿松石色伴以珊瑚色和叶绿色。不过这并非其唯一的创新。设计师马西米拉诺·乔尼蒂(Massimiliano Giornetti)还对鞋子作了一番大胆的改动，从传统的皮鞋变为色彩活泼的运动鞋，有时单是一只鞋，就可以同时配上黄色、绿色和红色。
“It was the idea of a piece of art, pop culture and Los Angeles — that is where Salvatore Ferragamo started,” said Mr. Giornetti, who took his Hockney theme rather too literally. (His own attire was a symphony of creamy surf colors).
“我们的设计想要集艺术、流行文化与洛杉矶于一身，洛杉矶正是萨尔瓦托勒·菲拉格慕起步的地方。”乔瓦蒂介绍说。不过他在处理霍克尼主题时未免有点流于表面（他本人穿一身黑色配奶油色）。
Yet this jolt of color — especially as just a touch on a white collar — brought energy to the conventional label. And the sneakers offered the Ferragamo customer a new sportswear category.
可是对色彩的运用——尤其是只在白色的衣领上添一抹颜色——为这个传统的品牌带来了活力。而让模特穿上球鞋，也给菲拉格慕的消费者们提供了全新的运动鞋选择。
Sport is always in the men’s wear air. Even before the arrival of the U.S. sports heroes Amar’e Stoudemire, Henrik Lundqvist and Victor Cruz, stars of basketball, hockey and football, respectively, the Calvin Klein collection already had been labeled by the designer Italo Zucchelli as “the evolution of the American hero.”
运动一直是男装挥之不去的主题。在卡尔文·克莱恩(Calvin Klein)新品发布会上，来自篮球、冰球和美式橄榄球的三位美国运动明星阿玛雷·斯塔德迈尔(Amar’e Stoudemire)、亨里克·兰奎斯特(Henrik Lundqvist)和维克多·克鲁兹(Victor Cruz)到来之前，设计师伊塔罗·祖切利(Italo Zucchelli)就已经将这个系列标榜为“美国英雄的演化”。
The athletes sat front row, wearing formal tailoring. But the runway show started with an homage to a Calvin Klein basic — denim. Although the collection was inspired by California, the colors were subdued and neutral. The intrigue was in the textures: A layer of mesh or a misty nylon for zippered jackets and a flower pattern that, in its dark blue hue, looked manly. Mr. Zucchelli is true to the founder’s legacy and that is the strength of his work.
运动员们坐在前排，身穿正式的定制西服。而伸展台上的这场发布会在开场时，向卡尔文·克莱恩的根基，也就是牛仔布，表达敬意。这个系列的灵感来源于加州，色彩却是柔和、中性的。秘密藏在材质里：拉链外套使用的一层网眼布料，或是一片朦胧的尼龙面料；以及深蓝色、看起来非常男人的印花图案。 设计师伊塔罗·祖切利忠实于创始人的传统，而这正是他作品最有力之处。
At Bottega Veneta, Tomas Maier held fast to his particular vision of casual luxury. He created an ode to a sweater, or rather its loose and easy shape, laced at the neckline, safari style — although the designer said backstage that Brittany sailors also were in his mind. Not to mention, perhaps, American Indians with the fringed suede tunics in ginger and matching moccasins.
在Bottega Veneta的秀上，托马斯·迈尔(Tomas Maier)坚守着他对休闲奢华的独特看法。他创造了一场对套头衫的礼赞，更准确地说，他讴歌的是套头衫宽松随意的外形、领口的绑结、狩猎远征的风格。不过设计师在后台说，他同时还想到了布列塔尼的水手。他的灵感来源不消说，可能还包括北美印第安人，他们穿着姜黄色镶着流苏边的山羊皮套头衫，脚穿相配的鹿皮软鞋。
The only deviations from the sweater idea were regular mannish suits printed with a splodge of faint flower pattern or suits made from floral organza as a riff on women’s wear.
唯一偏离套头衫这个主题的，是日常的男士西装。上面印着浅淡的花纹图案，或者是使用欧根纱材质制成的西服，再次重复了这个品牌女装的用料。
Mr. Maier seems totally in command of his vision of luxury. It is about the pleasure felt by the wearer, offering the ultimate in stealth wealth.
迈尔看来彻底掌控了对奢华的理解。它关乎穿衣者亲身感受到的愉悦，展现了低调奢华的极致。
“It’s dedicated to the gladiator — not about physical fighting, but a man from that moment — and I was thinking a little bit about the Memphis movement in the 1980s,” said Donatella Versace, referring to the Italian postmodern design and architecture group in describing the essence of her Versace show.
“它要献给角斗士——不是真的去跟人肉搏的人，而是一个经历过斗争和厮杀的男人——我当时想到了20世纪80年代的孟菲斯运动。”多纳泰拉·范思哲说。在描述她这场范思哲发布会的精髓时，她谈到了意大利的后现代设计和建筑团体。
The decision for a brand to branch out from clothes to underwear has never had such a dramatic effect as the models, wearing filmy garments anchored by gilded-leather holsters, displaying the latest look in Versace underpants.
还从来没有一个品牌决定从成衣延伸到内衣之后，会对模特产生如此戏剧性的影响。他们穿着轻薄的外衣，系上金色的皮质腰带，展示着范思哲的新款内衣。
Although those garments might have seemed more likely to land on a film set than in Everyman’s bedroom, Ms. Versace had other ideas. They included tailoring in Jacquard weaves for streamlined suits for the man who likes the designer’s V-shape of bravura shoulders slimming down at the hips. A “V” for victory for the alpha male.
这些外衣看起来更可能出现在电影拍摄现场，而不是普通男人的卧室里，不过对此多纳泰拉·范思哲有不同的看法。这当中一些衣服使用了提花面料，使用流线型剪裁，迎合那些喜欢设计师V型剪裁的男士，这种造型突出宽厚双肩，到臀部一路细窄。“V”代表的是雄性领袖的胜利。
“A new way to do safari — with a bit of David Bowie’s London to Mombasa,” said Ennio Capasa of Costume National. He was referring to the sand white vests and jackets with soft pants that opened the show, segueing into graphic black- and-white striped trousers.
“去狩猎远足的新方式——带着点大卫·鲍伊(David Bowie)的伦敦去蒙巴萨，”Costume National品牌的埃尼奥·卡帕萨(Ennio Capasa)说。他指的是发布会开场时出现的沙白色背心、外套和材质柔软的长裤，随后长裤渐渐过渡成黑白条纹图案。
Mr. Capasa also hit on the bright blue that is already a standout shade of the summer 2013 season. And when it was back to black, there was still the tension of texture as shiny-surfaced coats contrasted with semi-sheer shirts.
卡帕萨也运用了亮蓝色，这个颜色已经成为2013年夏季最突出的色调。即使服装最后回归到黑色，织物仍然充满了张力，使用了亮面的大衣与半透明的衬衫两厢对比。
The flood of Asian shoppers on the city’s Monte Napoleone street shows who is bolstering the luxury business, although Gildo Zegna, chief executive of his family company, says that Brazilians and Russians add to the score.
在意大利的蒙提拿破仑街，如潮水般涌来的亚洲客人证明了谁现在才是奢侈品业的中流砥柱，不过担任家族企业首席执行官的吉尔多·杰尼亚(Gildo Zegna)说，近来巴西人和俄罗斯人比例渐增。
The Ermenegildo Zegna look for the runway was as smooth as silk, the fabric woven into the collection in complex mixes, giving a sheen to formal and sportswear.
伸展台上Ermenegildo Zegna的造型如丝般顺滑，真丝面料汇入了这个系列中，使正装与运动装都平添了一份光泽。
“And it is very light for traveling,” said Mr. Zegna, referring to a wine silk coat and to suits in mixes of silk and cotton. This classic symphony was played out not just in the materials but also in the clothes: a double-breasted silhouette; some sportier jackets, particularly in the discreet tropical plant pattern.
“而且在出行时这些衣服很轻巧，”杰尼亚说，他指的是一件紫红色的真丝大衣以及几件丝棉混纺的西服。一曲经典交响乐不仅在材质，同时也在衣服中弹奏：一件双排扣大衣；几件低调地印着热带植物图案的运动外套。
That idea of print seemed fresh for Zegna and enlarged the scope of a company that is never going to be a trend setter but bends as gracefully as a field of young bamboo to the prevailing winds.
印花这个创意对Zegna来说非常新鲜，同时也扩大了这家公司的视野，它向来不是趋势的制定者，而像是一片小竹林，面对风暴时优雅地弯下腰肢。