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时装秀音乐名单大全

They Provide the Music to Sashay By
时装秀音乐名单大全

WHAT would a fashion show be without music?

时装秀上怎能缺了音乐呢?

Nowhere nearly as exciting. Certainly less impressive. Probably a little awkward.

少了音乐,走秀肯定没那么精彩刺激,打动人心,说不定还会有点让人难堪。
 

Each season, designers turn to disc jockeys to provide the soundtrack to animate their collections.

每一季,设计师们都会邀请DJ来准备时装展上的音乐。

A few D.J.’s shared their playlists for coming shows (their replies have been edited and condensed).

时装周开始走秀,下面有请几位DJ晒出他们的曲目单(他们的回答经过了我们的编辑和精简)。

MICHEL GAUBERT

米歇尔·戈伯特(MICHEL GAUBERT) 


Call him the John Williams of fashion shows. Mr. Gaubert, 52, the D.J. at Le Palace in Paris in the 1970s, has composed music for some of fashion’s biggest names, including Karl Lagerfeld and Oscar de la Renta.

52岁的戈伯特从20世纪70年代开始在巴黎的“Le Palace”(巴黎的传奇夜总会——译注)担任DJ,堪称时尚秀场上的约翰·威廉姆斯(John Williams)。他曾为卡尔·拉格斐(Karl Lagerfeld)和奥斯卡·德拉伦塔(Oscar de la Renta)等时装巨擘创作音乐。

The greatest compliment he’s ever received? Mr. Lagerfeld once told him, “I trust your judgment.”

拉菲格有一次对他说:“我信任你的判断。” 他把这句话当作生平得到的最高赞美。

SHOWS Michael Kors on Wednesday.

出席场次:周三的迈克尔·科尔斯(Michael Kors)走秀

MOOD YOU ARE CREATING Rich minimal.

想营造的氛围:意涵丰富的极简主义。

RUNWAY PLAYLIST M.K. loves New Order, and also loves it when Vitamin String Quartet covers pop music. We commissioned them to record “Bizarre Love Triangle” with a full orchestra.

走秀曲目单:迈克尔·科尔斯喜欢“新秩序”乐队(New Order),还喜欢“维生素弦乐四重奏”(Vitamin String Quartet)用古典方式演绎的流行歌曲。我们邀请“维生素”与一个完整的管弦乐队合作,演绎了《奇异的三角恋》(Bizarre Love Triangle,New Order名曲——译注)这首歌。

PERSONAL PLAYLIST Jessie Ware’s “110%,” Lou Doillon’s “I.C.U.” and Frank Ocean’s “Channel Orange,” which is my favorite. He has a wonderful voice.

私人曲目单:杰西·威尔(Jessie Ware)的《110%》、露·杜瓦隆(Lou Doillon)的《重症监护室》(I.C.U.)和弗兰克·欧什(Frank Ocean)的《橙色频道》(Channel Orange)我都很喜欢。《橙色频道》是我的最爱,欧什有一副好嗓子。

The lyrics are very personal and the production is not overpowering. It is an album that you listen to like an album.

歌词非常个人化,制作中没有过分花哨的东西。你可以把它当作一张真正的音乐专辑去欣赏。

SONGS YOU AVOID If someone plays Lana Del Rey again, I will not be able to control myself.

绝不会播放的歌:谁要是再放拉娜·德·雷(Lana Del Rey),我就要抓狂了。

WHAT WILL YOU WEAR Depends on the weather and my waistline. Hopefully my new Comme des Garçons coat with polka dots.

你会穿什么衣服出席:要看天气,还要看到时候我的腰围有多粗。希望能穿我新买的Comme des Garçons带波点外套。

SCOTT STERNBERG

斯科特·斯坦伯格(SCOTT STERNBERG)


He named his label Band of Outsiders, after the French New Wave film. His presentations are just as cinematic. He once transformed Milk gallery into a beach with tons of sand. To complete his mise-en-scène, Mr. Sternberg chooses the music himself, working with the producer Sunny Levine to develop a soundtrack that would make Godard proud.

斯坦伯格给自己的品牌起名“法外之徒”(Band of Outsiders),这是一部著名法国新浪潮电影的名字(让·吕克·戈达尔导演,1964年上映——译注)。有一次,他用好几吨沙子把牛奶艺术馆整个变成了海滩(这里指的是斯坦伯格2010年举办的海洋风格主题时装发布会。——译注)。为了达到自己想要的视听效果,斯坦伯格都是自己选择走秀时播放的音乐,同时也和制作人桑尼·莱文合作制作原声辑,哪怕是戈达尔听到了也会为之感到骄傲。

SHOWS Boy, by Band of Outsiders, on Saturday.

出席场次:周六“法外之徒”的“男孩”主题走秀。 

MOOD YOU ARE CREATING Ethereal. That’s the only mood I want to convey with the music.  The clothes, set and lighting should presumably do the rest.

想营造的氛围:轻盈飘渺。这是我想通过音乐传递的唯一感觉。服装、布景和照明也应该配合这种氛围。

RUNWAY PLAYLIST Just one song, as usual, mixed up and extended.  I’m not going to reveal the title quite yet, but it’s sung by a lady singer with a pretty voice.

走秀曲目单:和平时一样,只有一首经过混音的加长版歌曲。我现在还不能透露歌名,不过可以告诉你,是由一位声音很美的女歌手演唱。

PERSONAL PLAYLIST A bunch of acoustic Karen O songs, Fiona Apple’s new record, “The Idler Wheel,” the Rolling Stones’ “Sticky Fingers,” Gillian Welch.

私人曲目单:卡伦·O(Karen O)不插电的很多歌、菲奥娜·阿普尔(Fiona Apple)的新专辑《滚轮》(The Idler Wheel)、“滚石”的《偷窃的手指》(Sticky Fingers),还有吉莉安·威尔什(Gillian Welch)的歌。

NEW FAVORITES They are far from new, but there’s a song called "Line by Line" on the latest album from the Walkmen that is a real winner.

近期新宠:“步行者”(Walkmen)这个乐队不算新了,不过他们的新专辑里有首新歌叫《一行接一行》(Line by Line)真的很不错。

WHAT WILL YOU WEAR I’ve been known to wear a boiler suit to the shows lately.

你会穿什么衣服出席:大家都知道,最近我都是穿连体工装出席秀场。

BRENDAN FALLIS

布伦达·法利斯(BRENDAN FALLIS)


A newcomer to fashion shows, he may be the only D.J. to be mistaken for a model (which he was, for a time). Mr. Fallis, 29, divides his time among D.J.’ing at Vogue parties; administering NMRKT, his online fashion start-up; and managing the R&B artist Theophilus London.

刚刚进入时尚秀场世界不久的法利斯可能是唯一会被错认成模特的DJ(有段时间的确总有人搞错)。他今年29岁,平时既要在《Vogue》主办的派对上当DJ、又要管理他新创办的时尚网站NMRKT,还在给R&B艺人西奥菲勒斯·伦敦(Theophilus London)当经纪人。

SHOWS Jill Stuart on Saturday.

出席场次:周六的吉尔·斯图尔特(Jill Stuart)走秀。

MOOD YOU ARE CREATING A 21st-century burlesque stage. I want the models to feel as beautiful and empowered as the female vocalists I’ve chosen.

想营造的氛围:一种21世纪滑稽歌舞剧的效果。我希望模特们觉得自己跟我选择的那些女声一样美丽又自信。

RUNWAY PLAYLIST Niki and the Dove, Alison Valentine and Grimes.

走秀曲目单:“尼基与鸽子”( Niki and the Dove)乐队,艾莉森·瓦伦蒂纳与“污垢”乐队(Alison Valentine and Grimes)。

PERSONAL PLAYLIST TNGHT, “Goooo”;  Kill Paris, “Girl, You One of a Kind”; Late Nite Tuff Guy, “Bless The Rains”; Theophilus London, “Dance Hall Days.”

私人曲目单:“TNGHT”乐队的《走》(Goooo)、基尔·帕里斯(Kill Paris)的《你是那种女孩》(Girl, You One of a Kind)、“夜间猛男”(Late Nite Tuff Guy)的《祝福雨水》(Bless The Rains),以及西奥菲勒斯·伦敦的《舞厅的日子》(Dance Hall Days)。

SONG YOU AVOID Used in the right context, anything can be liked again, but “Vogue” by Madonna will forever haunt me.

绝不会播放的歌:只要环境对了,什么歌都可以一再重放,被大家喜欢。麦当娜的《时髦》(Vogue)倒是总会让我不安 。

WHAT WILL YOU WEAR A slim, well-tailored black Jil Sander suit.  Clean, classy and easy.

你会穿什么衣服出席:紧身合体,精工裁剪的吉尔·桑达(Jil Sander)。干净、有品位又休闲。

BEN BRUNNEMER

本·布伦尼莫(BEN BRUNNEMER)


About 10 years ago, Passerby in Chelsea was a bit of a clubhouse for the fashion and art crowd, and Ben Brunnemer, fresh out of Bard, was its D.J. Now 33, Mr. Brunnemer splits his time between New York and Los Angeles, and the art and fashion worlds, playing events at Art Basel, as well as runway shows for Thom Browne and threeASFOUR.

大约10年前,切尔西的“过路人”(Passerby)酒吧有点像时尚界和艺术界人士的俱乐部会所,刚从巴德学院毕业的本·布伦尼莫就在那儿当DJ。如今他已经33岁,横跨艺术与时尚两界,在纽约和洛杉矶两地奔波。既在艺术巴塞尔(Art Basel)的活动中演出,也参加桑姆·布朗尼(Thom Browne)和“不三不四”(ThreeASFOUR)的时尚走秀。

SHOWS Nomia on Tuesday.

出席场次:周四的“Nomia”走秀。

MOOD YOU ARE CREATING This season, we’re going to use experimental electronic music as the feminine base, but then put hip-hop beats over it to match the line’s new masculine edge.

想营造的氛围:这一季我们本想采用女声为基础的试验电子乐,但后来又加入了hip-hop节奏,为音乐赋予了新的男性化色彩。

RUNWAY PLAYLIST I make a lot of the music. I’ve pulled samples from Boards of Canada and minimalist pieces from Steve Reich.

走秀曲目单:我准备了很多音乐。我从“加拿大委员会”(Boards of Canada)的音乐里采样,还拿来了史蒂夫·里奇(Steve Reich)的一些极简主义的东西。

PERSONAL PLAYLIST The same artists I’ve listened to for years: Lou Reed, the Velvet Underground, Joy Division. I like the new Spiritualized record. The new Hot Chip record is pretty good.

私人曲目单:同样的歌手和乐队我会一听好多年,比如卢·里德(Lou Reed)、“地下丝绒”(Velvet Underground)和“快乐分裂”(Joy Division)。我还喜欢“净化”(Spiritualized)乐队的新专辑。“热薯片”(Hot Chip)的新专辑也不错。

SONGS YOU AVOID Last season, every time I was in Lincoln Center I heard “Pumped Up Kicks” by Foster the People.

绝不会播放的歌:上一季我每次去林肯中心都能听见“养育人民”(Foster the People)的《振奋精神》(Pumped Up Kicks),实在听够了。

WHAT WILL YOU WEAR In Lincoln Center, the A.C. is going to be at max capacity, so probably my Engineered Garments jacket.

你会穿什么衣服出席:林肯中心的空调可能会开到最大,所以我大概会穿Engineered Garments外套吧 。

SEBASTIAN PERRIN

塞巴斯蒂安·佩兰(SEBASTIAN PERRIN)


Born and raised in Paris, Mr. Perrin, 36, began his career holding parties in the mid-1990s in Montparnasse. After a stint as program director for Radio FG, he began D.J.’ing for fashion shows under Mr. Gaubert.

36岁的佩兰在巴黎出生长大,20世纪90年代中期开始在法国蒙特帕纳斯主持派对。在FG电台担任过一段时间的节目部主任之后,他开始为戈伯特先生工作,在时尚走秀上担任DJ。

SHOWS 3.1 Phillip Lim on Monday.

出席场次:周一的菲利林3.1(3.1Phillip Lim)走秀。

MOOD YOU ARE CREATING It’s sort of grungy, but it’s still sophisticated and refined, like Mr. Lim.

想营造的氛围:会有点凌乱的感觉,但又非常复杂精美,就像林先生本人那样。

RUNWAY PLAYLIST I’m listening to eight hours of new music a day to try and create the most immediate, reactive feeling. I like the new Delilah album, “From the Roots Up,” especially the song “Never Be Another.”

走秀曲目单:每天我都会拿出8个小时听最新的音乐,努力找到最新鲜、最活跃的感觉。我喜欢“黛莉拉”(Delilah)乐队的新专辑《连根拔起》(From the Roots Up),特别是其中一首叫《永远不要做别人》(Never Be Another)的歌。

PERSONAL PLAYLIST  I like the new album from Dark Dark Dark. The girls from Haim aren’t bad. There’s a lot of obscure things: Modeselektor, Phone.O, Om Unit and Dabrye.

私人曲目单:我喜欢“黑暗、黑暗、黑暗”(Dark Dark Dark)的新专辑。“海姆”(Haim)乐队的姑娘们也不错。我还喜欢不少阴暗的乐队,比如“Modeselektor”、“啊,电话”(Phone.O)、“Om神教”(Om Unit)和“Dabrye”。

SONGS YOU AVOID Joy Division’s “Love Will Tear Us Apart.” And I used it last season.

绝不会播放的歌:“快乐分裂”的《爱会把我们撕裂》(Love Will Tear Us Apart),因为我上季放过了。

WHAT WILL YOU WEAR Mr. Lim is very simple, so I will be trying to fit in the mood. You’ll see me at the show wearing a black T-shirt and black pants.

你会穿什么衣服出席:林的衣服都是简洁的风格,所以我也得和这种气氛搭配才好。到时候你会看到我穿黑T恤和黑裤子出现。
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