好英语网耐克、阿迪达斯……改变世界的七双运动鞋
Once reserved for sports pursuits, since the 1960s sneakers have conquered the worlds of music and fashion to become a billion-dollar industry. From the Adidas Superstar to checkerboard Vans and Nike Air Jordans, we look at the stories behind seven iconic pairs of trainers.
曾经球鞋仅作运动需要，而自20世纪60年代起，球鞋竟征服了音乐界和时尚界，一跃成为一个价值数十亿美元的时尚产业。从阿迪达斯（Adidas）的超级巨星（Superstar）系列，到黑白方格纹的范斯鞋（Vans）、耐克的空中飞人乔丹（Air Jordan）系列，让我们看看七双标志性球鞋背后的故事。
Launched in 2002, Sneaker Freaker was the world’s first magazine dedicated to the cult of sneakers. It started as the pet project of Simon 'Woody' Wood. In his new project, The Ultimate Sneaker Book, he says: "My motivation was pretty simple. I wanted Nike and Adidas to send me free shoes. Loads of free shoes. Enough to fill a FedEx truck! And I wanted that truck to come back every month with more boxes to add to my stash."
《球鞋狂人》（Sneaker Freaker）杂志创办于2002年，是世界上第一本以球鞋迷为目标读者的杂志。创始人伍迪（Simon 'Woody' Wood）当时十分看好这个项目。 伍德在他的新作《终极球鞋指南》（The Ultimate Sneaker Book）中提到：“我当初的动机十分简单，就是希望耐克和阿迪达斯能给我寄免费的鞋子。超多免费的鞋子。最好能装满整辆送快递的卡车！然后每个月快递车都能来一趟，更新我的鞋子收藏。”
乔丹一代“芝加哥”（Jordan I 'Chicago'），1985
Woody found he wasn't alone in his devotion to sneakers: hundreds turned up to the magazine launch and logged into the forum to talk footwear. He discovered other amateur sneaker heads were plotting professional transitions. Soon the sense of a globally connected community of sneaker lovers was plausible, and the scene rapidly mutated.
伍迪发现，像他这样的球鞋狂热粉不止他一个：有数百人出席了杂志发布会、登录论坛来讨论鞋子。 他也发现，许多业余的球鞋迷正在向专业过渡。很快，全球性的球鞋爱好者社群就得到了人们的认可，球鞋这一领域可以说是日新月异。
He says: "Limited editions, collaborations, samples, Japan-only editions, knockoffs, deadstock, vintage, customs, one-of-ones, artist collabs, retailer tie-ins, player-protos and retro reissues – there was so much newness to absorb. Soon enough, every brand had identified this new breed of ‘sneakerhead’ as a highly lucrative demographic."
他说：“限量鞋、联名鞋、样品鞋、日本限定版、山寨鞋、滞销品、复古版、定制鞋、孤品鞋、艺术家合作款、搭售鞋、运动员原型鞋、复刻鞋，新奇的球鞋种类实在太多。很快，品牌方就发现了这群新兴的球鞋迷的存在，并且认定能从这一人群中获利。”
The Ultimate Sneaker Book sets out to recount "every sneaker story worth telling". Here we pick seven.
《终极球鞋指南》里重述了“每个值得讲述的球鞋故事”。 我们在这里挑了七个。
Nike Dunk
耐克扣篮鞋（Nike Dunk）
Nike employee Sandy Bodecker was tasked with establishing the brand’s skate division, known as Nike SB, which fast became a collectors' favourite.
博德克（Sandy Bodecker）生前就职于耐克公司，曾经创立了耐克的滑板运动鞋，即耐克SB系列。后来，这一系列成为了收藏爱好者的必争之物。
The Holy Grail of SB collecting, the ‘eBay’ Dunk, was auctioned off for charity in 2003 for a winning bid of $26,000. The anonymous winner received a pair in their size, while the original, and only, sample was destroyed with a chainsaw live at the trade event.
2006年的一项慈善拍卖中，SB收藏系列中最尊贵的，也就是“易趣”扣篮鞋（'eBay' Dunk）， 以26,000美元的价格成功售出。这位匿名的竞标者最终获得了一双定制尺码的同款鞋，而先前唯一的一双样品鞋则在拍卖会上当场被锯子锯成了若干段。
Reebok Pump
锐步充气鞋（Reebok Pump）
"Ask any kid from the early 90s and they’ll all tell you the same thing – Reebok Pumps were the absolute business," says Woody. "The inflatable widget is still the most ingenious gimmick in the history of footwear.”
伍迪说：“90年代初的时候，随便问哪个孩子，他们都会告诉你，锐步的充气鞋绝对好赚。直到今天，充气鞋也仍然是球鞋历史上最巧妙的噱头。”
The concept behind these shoes was simple: Reebok Pump would use inflatable chambers that pump up for a custom fit. No two feet are alike and the customisation of inflating and deflating the shoes was hugely appealing.
这些鞋子背后的设计理念很简单：锐步充气鞋设计有充气腔，要充多少气全看个人的爱好。没有两只脚是完全相同的，按照顾客的脚定制鞋子充气和放气的设计非常吸引人。
Reebok recruited a host of basketball players to wear the shoes. In February 1991 Boston Celtics player Dee Brown took on Seattle SuperSonics Shawn Kemp in the NBA Slam Dunk Contest. Dee opted to pump up his Reebok Omni Zone IIs on court in front of a global audience before unleashing the now legendary ‘No-Look Dunk’ as a finale.
锐步招募了许多篮球运动员试穿其球鞋。1991年2月的NBA灌篮大赛中，波士顿凯尔特人队的迪布朗（Dee Brown）对阵西雅图超音速队的坎普（Shawn Kemp）。球场上，迪布朗把他的Omni Zone IIs战靴展示给了全球所有的观众。最后，他蒙眼投进一球，闻名世界。
Woody says: "By treating the shoes as an accessory to his win in the name of showmanship, Dee became the Pump’s own action hero."
伍迪说：“迪布朗以表演名义顺带展示了他的战靴，成为了一代充气鞋的动作明星。”
Adidas Superstar
阿迪达斯超级巨星（Adidas Superstar）
"Universally loved in all four corners of the globe, the Superstar is one of those rare sneakers that transcends class and creed," says Woody. German firm Adidas launched the Superstar in 1970 as basketball shoe, but in the 80s it moved into the realm of urban fashion.
伍迪说：“全球各地有无数人为超级巨星这款鞋所着迷。为数不多超越阶级和信仰的球鞋里，超级巨星就占据了一个位置。”上世纪70年代，德国的阿迪达斯公司发布了超级巨星系列篮球鞋，而在80年代，这一系列进入了都市时尚界。
The shoe’s raw aesthetic and b-boy resilience, along with the prestige of being a European brand, made it popular among the hip hop scene in NYC. Woody says: "In the South Bronx, the pioneers and party starters of the era were wearing Superstars and giving them a street credibility that Adidas never envisaged or actively encouraged."
凭着一股原始的美学感和街舞风格的韧性，另有欧洲品牌的血统加持，超级巨星在纽约嘻哈圈里颇受欢迎。伍迪说：“在南布朗克斯，这个时代的开拓者和派对先锋们都穿着超级巨星，给鞋子赋予了一种街舞者的身份公信力。这是阿迪达斯从未设想过，也从未刻意经营过的结果。”
Among the shoes' biggest fans were Queens hip hop group Run-DMC. The group included a tribute to their favourite kicks, titled My Adidas, on the bestselling Raising Hell LP. When performing the song live at Madison Square Garden they encouraged fans to hold their Adidas shoes up.
超级巨星最大的粉丝是皇后区的嘻哈组合Run-DMC。 该乐队最畅销的黑胶唱片《上升的地狱》（Raising Hell）致敬挚爱的鞋子，以“我的阿迪达斯”命名了一首歌。一次乐队在麦迪逊广场花园现场演唱这首歌时，他们鼓励粉丝们举起他们的阿迪达斯鞋。
Suitably persuaded, Adidas signed the hip hop group in an endorsement deal worth $1 million and released an entire Run-DMC line of trainers.
阿迪达斯也为之动容，以10亿美元签下了该组合做代言，并发布了一整套Run-DMC系列训练鞋。
Nike Mag
耐克磁力鞋（Nike Mags）
"When news officially broke that Nike would release the shoes worn by Marty McFly in Back to the Future II, hardcore nerdburgers, film buffs and sneakerheads lost their minds," says Sneaker Freaker contributor Matt Williams.
《球鞋狂人》杂志的撰稿人威廉姆斯（Matt Williams）表示：“耐克正式宣布将会发售《回到未来2》（Back to the Future II）中主角马蒂（Marty McFly）所穿的鞋子时，铁杆书迷、电影迷和球鞋狂热粉们都炸开了锅。”
A total of 1,500 pairs, known as Nike Mags, were sold in an eBay auction to raise funds for the Michael J. Fox Foundation and Parkinson’s research.
这个鞋子在易趣上一共拍卖出了1500双，款项将用于迈克尔·福克斯基金会（Michael J. Fox Foundation）以及帕金森病的研究。
The shoes came labelled with ‘Magnetic Anti Gravity’ tags and included designer Tinker Hatfield’s illustrated instructions, a metal licence plate with a unique serial code and a DVD with the Back to the Future II trailer. A total of $4.7 million was raised, making it the largest charity auction of all time.
鞋上标有“磁性反重力”标签，还配有设计师哈特菲尔德（Tinker Hatfield）的插图说明。随鞋附赠一块带有独特序列码的金属吊牌，以及《回到未来2》的预告片DVD。拍卖一共筹集了470万美元，是有史以来规模最大的慈善拍卖会。
A further 10 pairs were sold at Nike events and this edition came inside a yellow road-case designed to look like the plutonium containment chamber in the original film. Auctioned in Hollywood, rapper Tinie Tempah paid $37,500 to take them home.
另外还有10双磁力鞋在耐克的活动中售出，这个鞋子版本的黄色包装盒特意设计成像是电影《回到未来》中的钚收藏室。拍卖在好莱坞进行，说唱歌手坦帕（Tinie Tempah）以37,500美元的价格最终拍得一双鞋。
Michael Jordan's Air Jordan
乔丹（Michaael Jordan）的空中飞人（Air Jordan）
"Michael Jordan’s signature shoe deal with Nike is arguably the most historic moment in sneaker history," says Woody. "From the cultish love of the number 23 to the iconic ‘Chicago Bulls’ colour combo, the superstar athlete sparked a 34-years-and-counting footwear phenomenon. For many sneakerheads, Air Jordan is the only brand in the game."
伍迪说：“乔丹与耐克的联名鞋协议可以说是运动鞋历史上最具意义的时刻。从数字23的脑残粉到‘芝加哥公牛队’（Chicago Bulls）的标志性颜色组合，这位运动界的超级巨星带动了34年（这一数字还在更新）的球鞋奇观。对于许多球鞋狂热粉来说，空中飞人是他们唯一感兴趣的品牌。”
Nike signed Michael Jordan in 1984 for $500,000 per year, though fine print stipulated Nike could walk away if sales didn’t reach the ambitious total of $4 million by the end of the third year. Just two months after the first Jordan shoe was released they had made $70 million in sales.
1984年，耐克签下乔丹，承诺每年支付50万美元。尽管有条约声明，如果三年后销售总额仍然没有达到400万美元，耐克有权拍屁股走人。事实上，第一款乔丹鞋发布仅两个月后，耐克的销售额就达到了7000万美元。
Vans checkerboard slip-on
范斯（Vans）的黑白方格纹滑板鞋
The checkerboard slip-on is probably the most recognised of all Vans' styles. In the late 70s the company owner’s son Steve Van Doren, who was just out of high school, noticed kids were colouring in their Vans with a checkerboard pattern. So they started making shoes with that design.
黑白方格纹滑板鞋可能是范斯品牌辨识度最高的标志之一了。上世纪70年代末期，公司老板的儿子范多伦（Steve Van Doren）刚刚高中毕业，有一天看到孩子们把自己的范斯鞋涂成一格一格的棋盘格纹状。因此，他们开始用这种设计制作鞋子。
Vans sent a box to the film Fast Times at Ridgemont High. Not only did Sean Penn’s character hit himself over the head with the shoes but they featured on the cover of the film’s soundtrack. After the film came out Vans sold millions of pairs.
后来，范斯给《开放的美国学府》（Fast Times at Ridgemont High）剧组寄了一盒东西。不仅电影里西恩·潘（Sean Penn）的扮演角色用范斯鞋子猛砸自己的脑袋，范斯甚至还出现在了电影配乐的封面上。 电影上映后，范斯销量激增，卖出了上百万双。
Kanye West's Air Yeezy
耐克椰子鞋（Air Yeezy）
Kanye West has collaborated with BAPE, Reebok, Louis Vuitton, Nike and Adidas, but it's his 2009 rookie Nike design, Air Yeezy, that is regarded as the one that truly kick-started his sneaker empire.
侃爷与安逸猿（BAPE），锐步、LV、耐克、阿迪达斯都有过合作。但是，人们一致认为，侃爷的球鞋帝国发源于他2009年第一次设计的耐克椰子鞋。
Sneaker Freaker contributor Anthony Costa says: "With its knee-scraping ankle padding, pillowy tongue and mammoth Velcro wrap, there was nothing subtle – or sporty – about the Yeezy steez. It was the ultimate symbol of cockily manicured excess."
《球鞋狂人》的撰稿人科斯塔（Anthony Costa）说：“椰子鞋的踝部衬垫都快磨到膝盖了，鞋舌厚如枕头，还有巨大的魔术贴包裹。整双鞋丝毫没有隐藏的霸气，也没有一点运动感。让人感觉它趾高气昂又矫揉造作、用力过猛。”
Three years late the Air Yeezy sequel arrived. A rumour started that the shoe would release at House of Hoops in Beverly Hills. There wasn’t a definite release date but people started camping out.
三年后，二代椰子鞋诞生。有传言说鞋子将在比佛利山庄的篮球概念店（House of Hoops）发布。 具体的发布日期尚未敲定，人们就已经开始在店外露营排队。
When a release date five weeks away was announced, rather than go home and lose their space, most Yeezy fans bunkered down to wait out the weeks.
当公告发布日期定在五周后，大多数椰子鞋的狂热粉不是回家停止露营排队，而是坚守原地耐心地等候了整整五个星期。