好英语网寻访奥巴马童年时代的夏威夷
WALKING to the beach with my family on a hot Kailua afternoon, let’s say 1972. My toy foam surfboard clip-clopping against my knees, towel scratching my neck, rubber slippers squeaking on steamy blacktop. Around the corner of Kuuala Street, across Kalaheo Avenue, then down the skinny beach path, hugging a cinderblock wall under a thick, shady row of octopus trees and bougainvillea. Footfalls echoing on packed dirt.
一个炎热的凯路亚下午，我和父母一同走向海滩，时间大约是1972年。塑料玩具冲浪板噼噼啪啪击打着我的膝盖，毛巾刮擦着后颈，橡胶拖鞋在湿热的柏油路上吱吱作响。拐过库瓦拉大街(Kuuala Street)，拐过卡拉西欧大道(Kalaheo Avenue)，沿着狭窄的海滨步道缓慢前行。煤砖矮墙上方是浓荫蔽日的章鱼树和簕杜鹃，零落的脚步声在夯实的硬泥地回响。
Coming out onto Kailua Bay. A field of impossible blue, sky down to water. Squinting in the brilliance of the broad, white crescent beach.
终于到了凯路亚湾(Kailua Bay)。海天一色，全是不可思议的蓝。左右两侧，是宽阔、洁白的弯月形海滩。
夏威夷瓦胡岛(Oahu, Hawaii)东北海岸的拉尼凯(Lanikai)以凯路亚湾(Kailua Bay)绝美风景款待晨起的徒步者。
My father swimming, in long, lazy lines parallel to shore. My mother sitting on the sand. Me, pondering the choices: sand castles or sand balls — wet double handfuls smooth-coated with dry sand into hard, sugar-dusted spheres; such a pity to have to whip one at your brother.
父亲下了海，沿着海岸线慢慢地做远距离游泳。母亲坐在沙滩上休息，我则陷入了深深的思索：是盖座沙滩城堡呢，还是团一个沙球——将两把潮湿的沙子握成又硬又紧的球体，外面拍上一层柔滑干爽的沙粒，仿佛敷了一层糖霜。这么漂亮的沙球稍后却要扔到我弟弟身上，真是可惜。
Kailua. The guidebooks say it’s basically a beach. But there’s a town wrapped around the beach, and, around that, a whole other side of the 600-square-mile island of Oahu — the windward side, a world away from Honolulu. Kailua is barely half an hour from downtown and Waikiki, but separated by a soaring ribbon of razorback mountains, the Koolau Range. The green lava wall is pierced near its summit by two sets of highway tunnels, like airlocks in time and space. The Honolulu side is dry and sunny, its postcard loveliness folded among high-rises, offices, airport and freeways. The Kailua side, where I grew up, is greener, quieter, lower and slower, with marshes and palms and that perfect bay.
凯路亚。旅行指南说它只是一处海滩。但沿着海滩向内陆走，会发现还有个环抱着海滩的小镇，小镇之外则是600平方英里的瓦胡岛(Oahu)的另一侧。瓦胡岛向风的这一面，与背风面的火奴鲁鲁(Honolulu)截然不同。凯路亚距离市区和怀基基(Waikiki)只有不到半小时的车程，但高峻陡峭的库劳山脉(Koolau Range)却将它们隔为两个世界。在火山石构成的暗绿山体上、靠近顶峰的地方凿出两条高速路隧道，仿佛是时间和空间的换气口。火奴鲁鲁那一侧空气干爽，阳光明媚，摩登的高层建筑、写字楼、机场和高速公路之间，到处是明信片般的风景。而凯路亚那一侧，我生于斯长于斯的地方，更加清凉，也更加静谧。数不清的沼泽和棕榈点缀着这片低调而缓慢的土地，还有完美的凯路亚湾。
The windward Oahu I know best is three communities: Kailua, Lanikai and their next-door country cousin, Waimanalo. They’re beachy but not snooty. Kailua has a downtown but no night life to speak of. It’s less a spot for touristic stimulation than a place you nestle into, as Hawaiian royalty once did, escaping dusty Honolulu since long before King Kamehameha’s day.
瓦胡岛的向风面中，我最熟悉的是三个区域：凯路亚、拉尼凯(Lanikai)和更为淳朴的威玛纳诺(Waimanalo)。三个地方都滨海，但却毫不做作。凯路亚有闹市区，但夜生活乏善可陈。这里不像旅游景点，更像一个可以温柔偎依的地方，正如昔日的夏威夷王室(Hawaiian royalty)一样——早在卡美哈美哈国王之前(King Kamehameha)，他们就喜欢逃离浮躁的火奴鲁鲁，在这里轻松休憩。
Two Beatles, John and George, mobbed in Waikiki, fled there once, in 1964. They were discovered, and so, eventually, was Kailua, although it and the rest of windward Oahu have managed to keep a reasonably low profile on Hawaii’s well-worn tourist map.
披头士乐队的两名成员约翰和乔治曾在1964年造访怀基基，度假期间两人忽然消失了几天。后来人们发现他们躲在凯路亚，不过凯路亚和瓦胡岛向风海岸的其他地方在夏威夷热门旅游地图上，始终维持着一定程度的低调。
That may be changing, especially now that President Obama has claimed Kailua as his. He grew up in Honolulu, but Kailua is where he returns. This is his place called Hope, his San Clemente, his Texas hill country. Every winter the Obamas stay at the same rented house at one end of the crescent bay, whose waters he knows from boyhood, as he wrote in his memoir, “Dreams From My Father”:
但这种状况正在起变化，尤其是美国总统奥巴马将凯路亚唤作他的凯路亚之后。他在火奴鲁鲁长大，但凯路亚却是他每次回乡时逗留的地方。这里是他叫做“希望”的地方，他的圣克莱门特(San Clemente)，他的的得克萨斯(Texas)山村（圣克莱门特是美国第37任美国总统尼克松的故乡，得克萨斯是美国第43任总统小布什青少年时代的居住地——译注）。每年冬天，奥巴马一家都在弯月形海滩北端的一处租用房下榻。那里有他童年时代熟悉的海水，正如他在自传《我父亲的梦想》(Dreams From My Father)中写到的那样：
“I still remember how, one early morning, hours before the sun rose, a Portuguese man to whom my grandfather had given a good deal on a sofa set took us out to spear fish off Kailua Bay. A gas lantern hung from the cabin on the small fishing boat as I watched men dive into inky-black waters, the beams of their flashlights glowing beneath the surface until they emerged with a large fish, iridescent and flopping at the end of one pole. Gramps told me its Hawaiian name, humu-humu-nuku-nuku-apuaa, which we repeated to each other the entire way home.”
“我仍然记得一个凌晨，距日出还有几个小时，一个曾低价向我外祖父购买组合沙发的葡萄牙人带我们去凯路亚湾出海叉鱼。一盏煤气灯悬在小渔船机舱的上空，我看着他们潜入墨黑色的海水，手电筒的光柱在水下频频晃动。他们再次浮出水面的时候，鱼叉另一端多了一条色彩斑斓、活蹦乱跳的大鱼。外祖父告诉了这种鱼的夏威夷名字，呼姆-呼姆-努库-努库-阿普瓦(humu-humu-nuku-nuku-apuaa)。回家的路上，我们一直在念叨这个名字。”
In this story, either Gramps or young Barack was mistaken, since the humuhumu is a little reef fish, barely six inches long. But let’s give Gramps a break on his fish names, and allow Barack his childhood lens of magnified wonderment: Hawaiians do still fish here with spears and nets, often in darkness, and are done by dawn.
这个故事中，少年奥巴马和他的外祖父都错了，因为呼姆-呼姆是一种岩礁鱼，最长不超过6英寸。但我们先不讨论老人家鱼类名字上的学识，我们只通过童年奥巴马的眼睛来欣赏此地被强化了的美景：直到今天，夏威夷居民的确仍然用鱼叉和渔网捕鱼，而且大都是在天亮前下海。
Kailua is the kind of little town that makes for good memories. It has the best Fourth of July parade in the state, where Uncle Sam in his long white beard salutes the crowd with the wrist-flicking, thumb-and-pinky shaka sign, and at night there are fireworks over the beach. It has farmers’ markets, with local tomatoes, papaya, torch-ginger blossoms and bananas. The windward side has local fishermen, dancers, musicians, artists — native Hawaiian families rooted there for generations, with names like Mahoe, Aluli and Pahinui. Like anywhere else in Hawaii, it has the all-American children of immigrants, descendants of the last century’s plantation era.
凯路亚是能够留下美好回忆的那种小镇。这里有夏威夷最漂亮的独立日花车游行，那时候，山姆大叔留着白色长胡子，用夏威夷特有的沙卡(shaka)手势向观众们问好，夜晚海滩上还焰火表演。沙卡是夏威夷流行的一个身体语言，技术要点是伸出拇指和小指，同时弯曲其他三只手指并转动手腕。这里的农贸市场出售本地出产的番茄、木瓜、香蕉和灯笼姜的花蕾。向风海岸的渔人、舞者、音乐家和画家都是在这里扎根了好几代的夏威夷居民，拥有马赫依(Mahoe)、阿鲁利(Aluli)和帕西努依(Pahinui)之类的名字。正如夏威夷其他区域一样，他们都是典型的移民的孩子，祖辈是从上世纪种植园时代来到这里的移民。
Kailua gives people who know it a deep sense of belonging, of roots in the sand. I moved away 30 years ago, but get back every chance I get. My own rituals of return, habits of haunting an old beloved home, could just as easily be yours.
凯路亚给那些了解它的人一种深深的归属感，仿佛植物种在沙土终于扎根。30年前我离开了凯路亚，但只要有机会我都会想办法回家看看。我个人的回归仪式，重返那个深爱之地的习惯，完全可以成为你探访凯路亚时的借鉴。
Whether you start from the Honolulu airport or Waikiki, leave the freeway at the Pali Highway exit, make the quick turn north for Nuuanu Valley, the steady climb, with the green, fluted mountain walls closing in, silvered with mist and plunging waterfalls when it rains. When highway builders, in the 1950s, reached the knife-edged Koolau summit, or pali, they punched tunnels through it and all but did away with the meandering mountain-goat path down the other side, with its treacherous winds and rock slides.
无论你的旅程从火奴鲁鲁机场还是怀基基海滩开始，在当地高速公路的帕里高速(Pali Highway)出口转入帕里高速公路，一路向北驶入努阿努山谷(Nuuanu Valley)。海拔稳步攀升，公路两侧群峰壁立，陡峭的山崖布满青苔和沟壑，薄雾和下雨时飞流直下的瀑布给视野染上一层朦胧的银白。1950年代，工人修建这条公路时看到库崂山最高峰帕里(Pali)峰险峻锋利，难以到达，就在山体中凿出了几条隧道。却无意中破坏了山体另一侧蜿蜒曲折的山羊小径，在凶猛的海风和泥石流之外，给野生山羊的生活又添了一个障碍。
Go through the second tunnel and then, ladies and gentlemen: the windward side, lush terrain of old fishponds, streams, marshes, soft volcanic cinder cones and the blue, isle-dotted bay, all laid at your feet. You’re looking down from a thousand-foot precipice, a view that dazzled Mark Twain. This is where, in 1795, King Kamehameha’s army, invaders from the Big Island, pushed the army of Chief Kalanikupule to the pali’s brink. The only way out was to plummet, which hundreds did. That victory gave Kamehameha dominion over all the Hawaiian islands. There is a lookout point and plaque recounting the historic battle.
驶过第二条隧道之后，女士们先生们：这个岛屿的向风面，布满古老鱼塘、溪流、沼泽和柔软火山椎的丰饶之地，以及远处洒满小岛的海湾，都瞬间出现在您的脚下。你站在1000英尺高的峭壁之上，面前的风景曾让马克·吐温如痴如醉。1795年，卡美哈美哈国王来自夏威夷大岛(Big Island)的军队侵入这个地方，将卡拉尼库普拉酋长(Chief Kalanikupule)的人马逼至帕里峰的边缘。唯一的出路是跳下悬崖，于是数百名将士全部跳崖身亡。借由这场胜仗，卡美哈美哈国王取得了整个夏威夷群岛的统治权。山顶的观景台上有个牌匾记录了这场历史性的战役。
This is also the site of a strange moment in Obama family lore. His memoir retells a story his mother and grandparents often told him, of how his father once grabbed a friend and playfully dangled him over the edge, where the poor man had just accidentally dropped and lost the elder Mr. Obama’s pipe. The story was meant for Barack’s amusement: That dad of yours; what a nut. When you stand at the same railing and look over the terrifying, wind-whipped abyss, you might have a different thought. Mine was: I’d have pressed charges.
这里也是奥巴马家族传说中另一桩怪事的发生地。他在自传中重述了母亲和外祖父母经常给他讲述的一个故事，说他的父亲抓住一个朋友并玩闹地要将后者吊在悬崖下方，因为那个可怜的家伙不慎在这里丢失了奥巴马老先生的一支烟斗。这个故事讲给小奥巴马听当然好玩：这个疯狂的混球，是你的爸爸。但当你站在悬崖的栏杆前俯视那狂风呼啸、令人毛骨悚然的深渊时，就会对这个故事产生不一样的观感。我的感想是：换了我就要起诉他。
Not every trip back to Kailua takes me to the Pali Lookout, but each one begins and ends on the beach. The first morning I’m up before dawn, easily. East Coast jet lag puts you in prime shape for Pacific sunrise viewing. Kailua is a morning town; the bay looks east and first light brings out runners and ambling couples with dogs and cups of coffee.
并非每次回凯路亚我都要造访帕里观景台，但凯路亚海滩却是我每次旅行开始和结束的地方。到达这里的第一个早晨，我毫不费力地就能起个大早。东海岸和此地的时差让你拥有了欣赏太平洋日出的绝佳体力。凯路亚是个适合黎明游览的城市，海滩面朝东方，第一缕阳光洒落时，海滩上已出现许多跑步者，还有手端咖啡一边遛狗一边散步的夫妇。
The waves have shrunk since I was a boy: I wonder why. But the rest is the same, as I confirmed again in an April visit with my family. The sand is still cottony and cool by the naupaka shrubs at the top of the beach, sloping down to firm wet velvet under the foam. The beach still wears a light seaweed fringe and is dotted with crab burrows every few feet, like a highly unimaginative mini-golf course.
海浪的规模似乎比我童年时小了一些——我很想知道为什么；但其他事物仍然保留着原貌，今年4月我和家人回乡时特地确认了一下。草海桐的树荫下，清凉绵软的沙滩从高处缓缓向下延伸，形成漫长而结实的海床。浪花一排排涌上海滩，拍打着下面柔滑而湿热的细沙。海草给海滩镶上一条淡绿色的花边，每隔三五英尺就能看到螃蟹洞，仿佛一个缺乏想象力的迷你高尔夫球场。
Overhead, great frigatebirds, ’iwa in Hawaiian, still hover in the whipping trade winds. Past the gentle shorebreak, Flat Island lies off to the right, close-in, temptingly swimmable. Beyond them, the Mokulua islets, Moku Nui and Moku Iki: a kayak trip away. Girding the bay to the left, a humpbacked volcanic crater, the Mokapu Peninsula, looking like the snake that swallowed an elephant in “The Little Prince.” It’s a marine base, off limits to most of us, and the president’s vacation gym.
头顶上空，体型庞大的军舰鸟——在夏威夷语叫“伊娃鸟(’iwa)”——仍在强劲的信风中翱翔。随着浪花退去的方向，海滩以东的平岛(Flat Island)看起来愈加切近，诱人忍不住想游到对岸。继续向东，由莫库努伊岛(Moku Nui)和莫库伊奇岛(Moku Iki)组成的莫库鲁瓦双岛(Mokulua islets)，坐皮划艇即可到达。由火山岩组成的莫卡普半岛(Mokapu Peninsula)从左侧环抱着海湾，半拱形的轮廓仿佛《小王子》(The Little Prince)里吞掉大象的那条巨蟒。莫卡普半岛是个海军基地，不对游客开放，总统的假日健身房也在这里。
Even at 6 a.m. the water is bathtub warm; I lie on my back with my feet pointing at the Mokuluas, and the sun rises behind my toes.
即使在清晨6点，这里的海水也像浴缸里一样温暖；我躺在沙滩上，双脚冲着莫库鲁瓦双岛的方向，看着朝阳从脚趾后面缓缓升起。
I met a fisherman, Randal Akiona, just after sunrise that morning at Kailua Beach Park. He was camping with his family by the park’s boat ramp. His wife, Tracey, read a book in the back of their truck while their girls played in the sand. Tourists were beginning to arrive for a day of kayaking, kite surfing and paddleboarding.
那天上午，我在凯路亚海滩公园(Kailua Beach Park)遇到一名叫做兰道尔·阿奇欧纳(Randal Akiona)的渔夫。那时他和家人正在公园的船坞附近露营。他的妻子翠西(Tracey)正在卡车后读书，女儿们在沙滩上玩耍。旅行者也来到这里，开始一天的皮划艇、风筝冲浪和桨式冲浪。
We talked about fishing, and of unemployment and homelessness, twin scourges of today’s native Hawaiians. He told me where I could buy the green, red and yellow flag of the Hawaiian sovereignty movement, like the ones decorating his truck. He told me that the homeless man I had seen wading under a nearby canal bridge, his belongings lashed to two surfboards, was a guy he knew.
我们聊起了钓鱼，以及失业和那些无家可归的人们，后两个问题是夏威夷土著当今面临的两个严重挑战。他告诉我哪里能买到夏威夷独立运动(Hawaiian sovereignty movement)的绿红黄三色旗，他的卡车也以这三种颜色为装饰。他说，刚才我在附近运河桥下看到的那个流浪汉正好是他的熟人，他所有的家当都绑在两只冲浪板上。
Later I got breakfast, papaya with lime, at my mom’s; you can go to old Kalapawai Market, by the park entrance, for Kona coffee, bagels and the morning paper, The Star-Advertiser. Or you can take the short walk into downtown Kailua, which hasn’t changed much in 50 years, though it’s beginning to. Last year they closed Don Quijote, an odd Japanese department store and supermarket where you could get groceries, the seasoned raw fish dish known as poke, Okinawan liquor, rubber slippers, bamboo fishing poles, rice cookers and macadamia nuts. Now it’s going to be a Target.
随后我去妈妈家里吃了早餐，有木瓜，有青柠檬。公园入口处古老的卡拉帕瓦伊市场(Kalapawai Market)是个吃早餐的好地方，出售科纳咖啡(Kona coffee)、百吉饼和当天早上的《星广报》(The Star-Advertiser)。你也可以走到凯路亚的闹市区，那个地方50年来几乎没什么变化，尽管最近貌似有改变的迹象。去年他们关闭了那家名唤“堂吉诃德”的日本百货商场。在那之前，你可以在那个有趣的地方买到各种日用品、名为“棍子”的鱼生、冲绳清酒、橡胶拖鞋、钓鱼的竹竿、电饭锅和澳洲坚果。根据规划，这个地方将来会变成一家塔吉特(Target)超市。
Still, there’s plenty of local flavor in the farmers’ markets, a little independent bookstore, homegrown places for art and antiques. The library, the Chinese and Vietnamese and pizza restaurants, the thrift shop with old muumuus, the public park, with swimming pool and ballfields, all say: this is a real town. Gentrification and tourists are creeping in. Go while you can.
但农贸市场中仍有大量的当地美食，还有几家独立书店和出售当地艺术品的商店。图书馆、中餐馆、越南餐馆、披萨店、出售二手穆穆袍(muumuus)的旧货店、公园、游泳池和几家球场都告诉你：这是一个真正的城市。但优雅做作的地产项目和旅行业已开始缓缓入侵，所以想来此地的要尽快。
Kailua was a thriving population center before European contact, a playground for chiefs and rich in farming and fish, thanks to its many freshwater streams and wetlands and placid bay. The huge fishponds and abundant banana, sweet potato and taro patches were mostly gone by the mid-19th century, replaced by cattle grazing and commercial development, but relics remain.
欧洲人到来之前，凯路亚就是个人丁茂盛的地区，各部落酋长竞争争夺的宝地。丰富的淡水、湿地资源和平静的海湾，造就了此地发达的农业和渔业。19世纪中期以后，巨型鱼塘和种有大量香蕉、红薯和芋头的田畴大都消失了，取而代之的是牧场上安详啃草的牛羊和飞速发展的工商业。但仍有一些遗迹让人们想起往日。
For a plunge into antiquity, you can visit Ulupo Heiau, a massive temple built by old Hawaiians, lava stone by stone, near the YMCA. Once it was neatly terraced with wooden altars and statues and sacrifices. The surviving platform, 150 feet by 140 feet with walls up to 30 feet high, is a staggering work of ancient hand-to-hand rock laying, perhaps 400 years old.
走近乌鲁普神庙(Ulupo Heiau)，就像是一头跌进了遥远的旧时光。这座规模宏大的庙宇位于基督教青年旅舍(YMCA)附近，由古代夏威夷人用火山石建成。在它完好无缺的盛年，神庙里有层层叠高的木制祭坛、雕像和各种祭品。现在只留下一个残存的神坛，约150英尺长，140英尺宽，四周竖着30英尺高的围墙。这座拥有400多年历史的建筑是古代手工累石技术的杰作。
Ho’omaluhia Botanic Garden, at the foot of the pali, is richly replanted in native species. A long walk along the levee traverses Kawainui Marsh, a good birders’ spot. BookEnds, a bookstore in Kailua Shopping Center, has an excellent section on Hawaiian history and guidebooks for bird- and fish-spotting.
坐落在帕里峰脚下的胡乌玛鲁西亚植物园(Ho’omaluhia Botanic Garden)种有许多当地的特有物种。沿着长堤耐心走上一段，就到了卡瓦努依湿地(Kawainui Marsh)，一个观鸟的好去处。“书挡”(BookEnds)书店位于凯路亚购物中心(Kailua Shopping Center)内，收集了夏威夷历史方面的许多书籍，还有不少观鸟观鱼之类的实用指南。
At some point, you take your books and spend all day at the beach. Kailua Beach Park is the main visitor magnet, where you can picnic, rent kayaks and try kite surfing and paddleboards, long surfboards that you stand on, using a long-handled, wide-bladed paddle to push yourself calmly around the bay. The far right side ends in a rocky point, where children can chase skipping gobies and black crabs in the sharp-edged tidepools.
有时候，你也可以带几本书在沙滩上度过一整天。凯路亚海滩公园是游客最喜欢的景观之一，可以野餐、租皮划艇出海，也可以尝试风筝冲浪和桨式冲浪。桨式冲浪是一种水上运动，你站在狭长的冲浪板上，用一只带有长柄的阔叶船桨推动自己在水域中平静前行。海湾的最右端是个礁石林立的地方，不时有儿童在礁石围成的浅坑里寻找黑螃蟹和活泼的虾虎鱼。
Mr. Obama’s house is way on the other side of the bay, at 57-A Kailuana Place; you can drive by and gawk if the guard booth is empty. If Kailua Beach Park feels too crowded, with boats and boards buzzing all around you, Kalama Beach Park, up Kalaheo Avenue closer to the Obama side, is far quieter and more secluded, and the waves are bigger.
奥巴马先生的住所位于海滩非常靠北的地方，地址是凯路亚广场57-A(57-A Kailuana Place)。你可以开车前往；如果门口的岗亭没人值班，你可以伸长脖子朝里面瞅一眼。如果你觉得凯路亚海滩公园太过拥挤，无处不在的船只和冲浪板太过恼人，就沿着卡拉西欧大道向奥巴马住所走一段，走进卡拉玛海滩公园(Kalama Beach Park)。那里游人较少，位置隐蔽，海浪也更猛烈一些。
We didn’t use much water-sports equipment when I was little. A day of swimming and body surfing was thrill enough, starting with slow edging into the water, all cold around the ankles and shins, down in the little wave-carved depression, up the other side, then up past the waist and then the choice — whether to let the prickly chill work slowly up to your neck or just plunge in. Usually a wave decides for you; you dive under and the snap-sweep of the breaker pulls you upright, and you bob, chilled but ready for the next wave.
在我小时候，水上运动还没有那么多花样。一天的游泳和人体冲浪就足以让人兴奋无比。人体冲浪时，你先缓缓走入水中，一股清凉沿着脚踝升到小腿，汹涌的海水将你包围起来，一会儿是低落的波谷，一会儿是高涨的波峰。 海水到达腰部的时候你就该做决定了——是让这略感疼痛的寒凉慢慢淹没自己的脖颈，还是一跃而起纵身拥抱大海。通常来说，海浪会帮你做决定。你将身子微微下倾，海浪上涨时会有一股拉力将你向上推，你迅速抓住这股力量，乘势上升。你的身体在浪花中翻滚，浑身冰凉发颤，却已开始期待下一波的惊涛骇浪。
I wish we’d had kayaks back then — I would have gone more often to Flat Island, a bird sanctuary, to watch out for the hatchlings and eggs. You can also swim the quarter-mile, or paddle on a surfboard. I wish even more that we’d had Island Snow. It’s the shave-ice store near Kailua Beach Park where the president takes his girls. His flavors are supposedly lime, guava-orange and cherry. I prefer coconut, with sweetened azuki beans.
我希望自己小时候就有皮划艇——那样我就能经常造访平岛了，去那个鸟类保护区观赏鸟蛋和刚刚破壳的雏鸟。从海滩到平岛只有1/4英里，你也可以游泳或者踩着冲浪板前往。我更希望那时我们已有了白雪岛(Island Snow)——那是凯路亚海滩公园附近的一家刨冰店，奥巴马和两个女儿常去的地方。据说他最喜欢的口味是柠檬、番石榴加橙子和樱桃。我更喜欢椰浆口味，再加入一些甜蜜蜜的红豆沙。
The park gets crowded on weekends, so it’s time to head out to Waimanalo, a short drive into a more Hawaiian state of mind. Here you’ll see houses flying the Hawaiian sovereignty flag, salving wounds unhealed since the overthrow of the kingdom in 1893. This is the rural town known to admirers of the late Gabby Pahinui, a master guitarist widely loved as the soul of Hawaiian music. In April I made a drive-by pilgrimage to his family home, a tidy wooden house on Bell Street where the best musicians in Hawaii once played backyard jams. Gabby’s sons Martin, Cyril and James, known as Bla, carry on the music in their own ways, not usually together.
周末时公园会很繁忙，那时候更适合去威玛纳诺(Waimanalo)。一段不长的车程，就到达了这个更具夏威夷特色的所在。在这里，飘扬在许多屋顶的夏威夷独立旗，安抚着1893年夏威夷国王被推翻以后那些受伤的灵魂。夏威夷歌手甘比·帕西努依(Gabby Pahinui)的粉丝对这个地方一定不会陌生，因为这是他的故乡。已故的帕西努依是个优秀的滑音吉他手，因深为夏威夷音乐的灵魂人物而深受歌迷的热爱。今年4月，我驾车到他的故居做了一次朝圣之旅。那幢整洁的木房子坐落在贝尔大街(Bell Street)，有一段时间，夏威夷最好的音乐家经常在他家的后院举办群体演出。甘比的儿子马丁(Martin)、 西里尔(Cyril)和詹姆斯(James)虽然被人合称Bla，但三人走了不同的音乐道路，很少在一起演出。
A Hawaiian music festival dedicated to Gabby takes place in Waimanalo every August, and is one of the best places to hear and feel the Hawaiian soul. “Waimanalo Blues,” a classic local song recorded many times, most memorably by Bla, is a lament for a lost and paved-over Hawaii. I listen for it on the radio when I’m back; it never takes too long before it comes up. The real Hawaii is there, if you look for it and listen; it lingers strongest where tourists don’t notice, all along the windward side.
为了表达对甘比的纪念，威玛纳诺每年8月都会举办夏威夷音乐节，这是聆听夏威夷灵歌的最好机会。“威玛纳诺布鲁斯(Waimanalo Blues)”是当地一首经典歌曲，许多歌手都翻唱过，最有纪念意义的是Bla那个版本，歌曲对大兴土木之后消失的古典夏威夷表达了悲哀的怀念。我回来时曾开着收音机刻意聆听，没过几分钟就听到了它的旋律。如果你愿意寻找愿意聆听，会在这里找到真正的夏威夷。它萦绕在游客很少关注的地方，每时每刻，在瓦胡岛的向风海岸。
The best way to get the lay of the land is with a short, mildly strenuous hike to a ridgeline along a smooth-sloped cinder cone just above Lanikai. We park on a dead-end road beside Mid-Pacific Country Club, where Mr. Obama golfs, walk along a short stretch of private driveway (is it trespassing if a sign points you to the trail?) and then clamber up the mountainside.
若想了解这里的地形，最好的方法是沿着拉尼凯火山锥的缓坡，向山脊线位置做一段强度中等的短途徒步。那里有个中太平洋乡村俱乐部(Mid-Pacific Country Club)，奥巴马先生经常在那里打高尔夫。我们将汽车泊在俱乐部旁边的死胡同里，走过一小段私家车道（如果有牌子指向徒步小径，我们的行为算是私闯民宅吗？），然后沿着山脊上山。
The red-dirt trail starts out crumbly and steep. My daughter, Sophie, and her brother, Zak, have cameras out. My wife, Pat, and I trade off on the backpack with the water bottles. We all step aside to let an extreme runner keep his heart rate up. “Excuse me,” he says, each time he comes and goes and comes again.
这条红土路的起始段脆弱而陡峭。我女儿苏菲(Sophie)和她弟弟扎克(Zak)背着相机，我妻子帕特(Pat)和我往背包里放了几瓶饮用水。一名练习极限短跑的人经过时，我们齐齐让开，站到山道一边让他通过。他沿着山路上下跑了好几遍，每次路过我们身边都客气地说：“劳驾。”
It’s a dry, hot hike, with cactus flowers and pili grass and butterflies. All the water is below you: Kaelepulu Stream, leading to the bay. Kawainui Marsh, the island’s largest. The cobalt blue beyond the reef. We watch a tour group in yellow banana-shaped kayaks begin their assault on the Mokuluas, slow and calm. In winter you can sometimes see whales; these tourists are probably looking out for honu: green sea turtles.
徒步那天的天气又干又热，山坡上仙人掌开着花，还有纤毛草，蝴蝶在草叶中飞舞。所有的水都在你的脚下：凯勒普鲁河(Kaelepulu Stream)蜿蜒流入海湾。卡瓦努依湿地是瓦胡岛面积最大的湿地。岩礁之外是辽阔的钴蓝色海水。我看着一个旅行团坐着香蕉形状的黄色皮划艇，平稳缓慢地向莫库鲁瓦双岛进发。冬天时人们有可能看到鲸鱼，这船夏天的旅客大约是在寻找胡努(honu)，一种绿色的夏威夷海龟。
We reach the summit, and the hulks of two concrete pillboxes, built in World War II as coastal lookouts. They’re a good place to rest, drink, soak it all in. People climb here in darkness to see the sunrise, but we’re a little late for that.
我们登上了顶峰。在那里，两座建于“二战”时期用混凝土建成的军事堡垒经过改造，变成了俯瞰大海的观景台。观景台是个休息的好地方，可以一边喝水，一边欣赏那醉人的美景。许多人半夜就来到这里等日出，但我们那天显然有点晚了。
A last stop at the beach before the airport, a last gathering of those sensations of surf and warmth, of sun squinting and salt smell, to take home to the mainland with you. Mr. Obama’s memoir says that when tourists used to watch him playing on the beach, staring rudely at the dark-skinned boy with the white mother and grandpa, Gramps would play a joke at their expense. He would whisper to them that the boy with the sand bucket was the great-grandson of King Kamehameha, conqueror of all the islands. The tourists would gawk and snap, and Gramps told little Barack that there were probably photos of him in scrapbooks all over the country.
回机场之前请到海滩做最后一件事——重温那些浪涛与温暖的感觉，那些刺眼的阳光与微咸的海风，然后将它们带回你远离海洋的家。奥巴马先生的回忆录说，他在海滩上玩耍的时候，常有游客无理地盯着他看，琢磨着为什么这个皮肤黯黑的孩子拥有白皮肤的母亲和外祖父母。这时候，外祖父就会和游客开玩笑。他对游客低声说，那个玩沙斗的男孩是夏威夷群岛征服者卡美哈美哈国王的曾孙。游客们总是大吃一惊，后来外祖父总结说，小奥巴马与游客合影的照片，大概已经占领了全美各地的相册簿。
I suspect some of those moments must have happened at Kailua Beach. In the Obama childhood snapshots I’ve seen, the waves look just right, Kailua-ish, frothier than at any of the ripply Honolulu beaches his mother and Gramps could have taken him to. Someday I hope to ask him.
我怀疑其中几张是在凯路亚海滩拍摄的。我看过奥巴马童年时代的一些照片，背景的海浪与凯路亚非常相似。它们跳跃奔涌，与奥巴马与母亲和外祖父常去的火奴鲁鲁那些柔弱的水波截然不同。希望有一天我能当面问问他。
IF YOU GO
实用信息：
Kailua has no hotels, but it has bed-and-breakfasts, many of them illegal. (A law banning unlicensed short-term rentals is widely flouted.) Try Pat’s Kailua Beach Properties (808-262-4128; patskailua.com), for clean, legal lodgings close to Kailua Beach Park and Lanikai, from $100 to $600 a night.
凯路亚没有酒店，但有不少B&B，许多都不是合法经营（当地有个法律禁止无旅馆牌照的居民将自家房产短期出租，但很多人对这个法律视而不见）。想要干净又合法的下榻地点，请尝试帕特的凯路亚海滩别墅(Pat’s Kailua Beach Properties；808-262-4128；patskailua.com)。距离凯路亚海滩公园和拉尼凯都很近，房价每晚100~600美元。
The turnoff to Nuuanu Pali Lookout is well-marked by signs on the Pali Highway (Route 61 north from Honolulu). Enter Kailua Beach Park at the corner of Kailua Road and South Kalaheo Avenue. You’ll see Kalapawai Market (306 South Kalaheo Avenue), good for snacks and souvenirs, and, across the street, Island Snow (130 Kailua Road), where President Obama takes his daughters for shave ice, and also Kailua Sailboards and Kayaks (888-457-5737; kailuasailboards.com) for rentals and lessons.
通往努阿努帕里观景台(Nuuanu Pali Lookout )的出口在帕里高速公路（也即61号公路从火奴鲁鲁开始的那一段）上有明显的标志牌。在凯路亚路(Kailua Road)和南卡拉西欧大道(South Kalaheo Avenue)的交叉口拐入凯路亚海滩公园(Kailua Beach Park)，门口你会看到卡拉帕瓦伊市场（Kalapawai Market；南卡拉西欧大道306号），出售零食和旅游纪念品。街道对面是白雪岛（Island Snow；凯路亚路130号），奥巴马总统经常带女儿去那里吃刨冰。旁边的凯路亚帆板和皮划艇(Kailua Sailboards and Kayaks；888-457-5737； kailuasailboards.com)出租帆板、皮划艇等装备，也有水上运动教程。
Kalama Beach Park (248 North Kalaheo Avenue) is on the same bay. The Lanikai Pillbox Trail starts just beyond the entrance to Mid Pacific Country Club (266 Kaelepulu Drive). Park on Kaelepulu, walk up the road; trailhead signs are on the left. Ulupo Heiau is a short walk from the YMCA (1200 Kailua Road). There’s good bird-watching and bicycling along the levee of Kawainui Marsh (enter from Kawainui Neighborhood Park, at the end of Kaha Street). Hoomaluhia Botanical Garden (45-680 Luluku Road, Kaneohe) is rich with native plants at the foot of the Koolau Mountains.
卡拉玛海滩公园（Kalama Beach Park；北卡拉西欧大道248号）也在凯路亚海滩上。中太平洋乡村俱乐部（Mid Pacific Country Club；凯勒普鲁大道266号）正门再往前走，就是拉尼凯军事堡垒徒步路线(Lanikai Pillbox Trail)的起点。凯勒普鲁大道停车，然后徒步上山；左手边有小径起点的标志。乌鲁普神庙(Ulupo Heiau)距离基督教青年旅舍（YMCA；凯路亚路1200号）只有一段轻松的步程。卡瓦努依湿地(Kawainui Marsh)四周的堤坝很适合观鸟和骑自行车。从哈卡路(Kaha Street)尽头的卡瓦努依社区公园(Kawainui Neighborhood Park)可进入湿地。胡乌玛鲁西亚植物园(Hoomaluhia Botanical Garden；45-680 Luluku Road, Kaneohe)位于库崂山的脚下，有种类丰富的本土植物。
Downtown Kailua is highly walkable; you can get your bearings and take a break at BookEnds (600 Kailua Road), a bookstore with a good selection of Hawaiian titles. For flowers and produce, the People’s Open Market is open on Thursdays from 7:15 to 8:15 a.m. at Waimanalo Beach Park (41-741 Kalanianaole Highway) and from 9 to 10 a.m. at Kailua District Park (21 South Kainalu Drive).
凯路亚市区完全可以步行游览。带着你的行李，在书挡（BookEnds；凯路亚路600号）书店稍事休息，翻阅店里卷帙浩繁的夏威夷书籍。喜欢鲜花和新鲜蔬菜的旅行者，可在周四早上7:15至 8:15营业去人民公共市场(People’s Open Market)，地点是威玛纳诺海滩公园(Waimanalo Beach Park；41-741 Kalanianaole Highway)。或在上午9点至10点间造访凯路亚地区公园(Kailua District Park；21 South Kainalu Drive)。
For breakfast, my mom likes Cinnamon’s (315 Uluniu Street; 808-261-8724), but Crepes No Ka Oi (131 Hekili Street; 808-263-4088) and Moke’s Bread and Breakfast (27 Hoolai Place; 808-261-5565) are good, too. For lunch, try Kalapawai Cafe (750 Kailua Road), Ohana Bar-BQ (16 Kainehe Street) or Keneke’s in Waimanalo (41-685 Kalanianaole Highway; 808-259-9811). Agnes’ Portuguese Bake Shop (46 Hoolai Street) has the best malasadas (Portuguese doughnuts). For dinner, try Buzz’s Original Steak House (413 Kawailoa Road; 808-261-4661) or Saeng’s Thai Cuisine (315 Hahani Street; 808-263-9727).
早餐的选择，我妈妈喜欢月桂家(Cinnamon’s；315 Uluniu Street；808-261-8724)，但最佳煎饼(Crepes No Ka Oi；131 Hekili Street；808-263-4088)和莫克的面包和早餐(Moke’s Bread and Breakfast；27 Hoolai Place；808-261-5565)也不错。至于午餐，可以尝试Kalapawai Cafe小餐馆（凯路亚路750号）、Ohana Bar-BQ烧烤店(16 Kainehe Street)或威玛纳诺的Keneke’s饭店(41-685 Kalanianaole Highway；808-259-9811)。艾格尼丝的葡萄牙烘焙坊(Agnes’ Portuguese Bake Shop；46 Hoolai Street)拥有最好的葡萄牙油炸多纳圈malasada。晚餐请尝试巴斯正宗牛排馆(Buzz’s Original Steak House；413 Kawailoa Road；808-261-4661)或Saeng’s Thai Cuisine泰味餐厅(315 Hahani Street；808-263-9727)。