好英语网不能错过之隐藏的欧洲
Athens
雅典 (Athens)
Kalamiotou Street, at night
夜晚的Kalamiotou大街(Kalamiotou Street)
It’s been three years since Greece became the epicenter of Europe’s debt crisis, but you’d hardly know it strolling the center of Athens at night. Eclectic restaurants and crackling night life animate a maze of streets steps from the Acropolis and the Greek Parliament.
希腊(Greece)变成欧债危机的中心已经三年了，但夜晚走在雅典市中心时人们很难意识到这一点。从卫城(Acropolis)到希腊议会大厦(Greek Parliament)，风格各异的饭馆和丰富多样的夜生活让这里迷宫般的街头漫步无比精彩。
左上起顺时针：巴肯游乐园、 圣维塔莱教堂、B. Leza俱乐部、Melilotos小餐馆、全俄罗斯展览中心、Amato Sole设计家居商店、鲁梅利城堡。
Instead of tucking into a heavy taverna dinner, head to Melilotos — 19 Kalamiotou Street, (30-210) 32-22-458 — hidden in the fabric district off Ermou Street. Its family-run kitchen specializes in fusion cuisine, using produce from the Greek islands. Here, Athenians in the know linger over fried Creten feta laced with ouzo and watermelon; a tangerine-infused pasta from Chios Island; and squid-ink tagliatelle flecked with smoked trout.
与在大饭店大吃大喝相比，我更推荐Melilotos小餐馆（Kalamiotou大街19号，电话30-210-32-22-458）。这个家庭经营的小馆子藏在Ermou大街附近错综复杂的巷道中，擅长用来自希腊诸岛的食材烹制各种融合式菜肴。懂行的雅典人流连此地，大啖配有茴香酒和西瓜的油炸克里特山羊奶酪、来自希俄斯岛(Chios Island)配有橘瓣的意式宽面条和搭配了烟熏鲑鱼的黑酱意大利面。
Around 10:30, the area morphs into a booming bar scene, starting when the Dude bar across the street, a paen to “The Big Lebowski,” opens its nondescript doors. Around the corner, facing St. Eirini church, throngs of young Greeks crowd the outdoor tables at Tailor Made — Plateia Agias Eirinis 2, (30-213) 004-9645 — a micro-coffee roaster by day, drinking spot by night, with drinks like the Porn Star Martini, made with passion fruit.
晚上10点半左右，这个区域摇身变成一个热闹的畅饮之地，开始的标志是马路对面那家叫做“Dube”的酒吧打开它那平淡无奇的房门。店名Dube是电影《谋杀绿脚趾》(The Big Lebowski)中男一号的名字，表达了对这部电影的致敬。走到街道拐角处，St. Eirini教堂对面“量身定做(Tailor Made)”酒吧(Plateia Agias Eirinis 2, 30-213-004-9645)的露天桌子旁挤满了希腊年轻人。“量身定做”白天是一家微烘焙咖啡馆，夜间则是个酒吧，供应西番莲调制的“色情明星马提尼”(Porn Star Martini)等饮品。
Many Greeks are not spending money on vacation or even gas, but they will pay to nurse a drink for 8 euros (about $10, at $1.26 to the euro) in a lively setting rather than sitting home and moping. If you’re in town, you may as well join them. LIZ ALDERMAN
现在许多希腊人都不愿在度假甚至汽油上花钱，但很愿意在热闹的小馆子里花8欧元（根据欧元对美元1.26的汇率，约合10美元）买杯好酒，而不是闷在家里。你游览雅典城的时候，不妨与他们喝一杯。——Liz Alderman
Barcelona, Spain
西班牙巴塞罗纳(Barcelona, Spain)
Amato Sole
Amato Sole设计家居商店
In Barcelona, it’s all too easy to simply shop the multistory outposts of Zara or Mango. Or to weave through racks of psychedelic-print tunics from the label Custo Barcelona. Or to wander around the sprawling home-design emporium Vinçon.
造访巴塞罗纳的时候，人们很容易在Zara或Mango占据好几层楼的品牌店里流连忘返，或在一架架挂着Custo Barcelona品牌标签的迷幻风格印花上衣中目迷五色，或在专营家居产品的大型商场Vinçon中挑花了眼。
But those who value craftsmanship over mass-produced goods should make the effort instead to explore the narrow streets in the southern part of the Raval neighborhood. “It’s a new part of the Raval that’s growing with new shops,” said Ramón Solé, a Barcelona native and a co-owner of Amato Sole, a housewares and furniture shop that opened in the area in December 2010.
但那些喜欢手工艺术超过批量产品的人来说，却需要花费一番工夫，在拉瓦尔(Raval)南部的狭窄街巷中细细探寻。“这是拉尔瓦的一个新区域，有许多新开的商店。”巴塞罗纳本地人Ramón Solé说道。他同时也是Amato Sole商店的联合所有人之一，这家商店2012年12月在拉瓦尔创立，出售家具和家居产品。
At Amato Sole (amatosole.com), many of the items for sale, from mirrors fitted within old window frames to wooden chairs inlaid with iron, are handmade in the second-floor studio by Mr. Solé, an industrial designer, and his partner, Annamaria Amato, an architect from Sicily. The couple take a modern, conscientious approach to sourcing their materials, scouring local markets for tattered, broken furniture that they then restore or repurpose to create cool, imaginative pieces with a back story.
Amato Sole(amatosole.com)的所有商品，无论是旧窗棂镶边的镜子还是嵌着铁饰的木椅，都由索罗(Solé)先生及其伴侣安娜玛利亚·阿玛托(Annamaria Amato)在店铺二楼的工作室里手工制成。索罗先生是个工业设计师，安娜玛利亚·阿玛托则是一名来自西西里的建筑师。这对伴侣用一种敏感而摩登的眼光来采购原材料，从当地旧货市场中寻找损毁的家具，然后将它们重新修复或改换用途，创造出充满想象力且带有背景故事的有趣物件。
Every few months local artists are invited to exhibit works in the shop — a melding of creative genres that transpires as, Mr. Solé said, “the art combines with our furniture.”
每隔几个月，他们都会邀请当地艺术家来店开办作品展。风格多样的作品与店里的商品摆在一起，营造出的效果用索罗先生的话说，就是“艺术与我们家具的完美结合”。
The couple, who live above the studio, plan to expand their business later this year by opening a second shop and studio space in the Gràcia neighborhood (at Carrer del Perill 39). For a limited time during the expansion they’ll open their store by appointment only, so check the Web site. Then snake through Raval and ring their bell to discover this charming (and well-hidden) gem. INGRID K. WILLIAMS
这对住在工作室楼上的伴侣计划年底在Gràcia区域开一家分店（具体地址是Carrer del Perill 39），分店也兼有工作室性质。扩建新店这段忙碌的时间里，老店只在有预约的时候才开门，所以请查阅他们的网站，然后穿过拉瓦尔曲折的小巷，按响他们的门铃，并探索那些令人心醉神迷（且藏得很好）的珍宝。——Ingrid K. Williams
Berlin
柏林(Berlin)
Soviet War Memorial/Street Art
苏维埃战争纪念碑(Soviet War Memorial)和街头艺术
From the paint-slathered remnants of the Berlin Wall to Daniel Libeskind’s Holocaust memorial, Berlin is awash in historical testament. But one of the city’s most fascinating monuments is well off the tourist trail, in the middle of Treptower Park, which runs along the Spree River in the former East Berlin.
从画满涂鸦的柏林墙遗址到丹尼尔·里柏斯金(Daniel Libeskind)的大屠杀纪念碑，历史的痕迹在柏林到处可见。但这个城市最迷人的纪念碑却远离常规的旅游路线，坐落在特雷普佗公园(Treptower Park)的中央。特雷普佗公园位于斯普雷河(Spree River)河畔，以前东柏林的那一侧。
Built after World War II to commemorate the thousands of Soviet soldiers who died in the Battle of Berlin, the huge Soviet War Memorial is at once a moving work of midcentury political art and a ludicrous piece of Stalinist pomp. The central axis leads from a statue of a grieving Mother Russia across a long, landscaped plaza to a 70-ton bronze statue of a soldier brandishing a rescued German child and standing triumphantly atop a crushed swastika. Lining the plaza, which is an actual burial plot for some 7,000 Red Army soldiers, are 16 raised stone sarcophagi, each bearing a quote by Stalin and a frieze depicting some act of Soviet heroism. The compositions — machine gun-toting soldiers stacked like sardines, children throwing grenades — are vaguely classical, like social realist tableaus as conceived by a Hellenistic artisan.
宏伟高大的苏维埃战争纪念碑建于“二战”结束之后，建造的目的是纪念柏林战役(Battle of Berlin)中阵亡的数千名苏联士兵。这座纪念碑刚一建成就成为20世纪中期政治艺术的杰出作品，以及斯大林式自我夸耀的荒诞代表作。一座满面愁容的俄罗斯母亲雕像是纪念碑雕塑群中轴线的起点。中轴线穿过一个宽阔而风景优美的广场，最后到达一座重达70吨的青铜战士雕像。他手中举着一名战火中救出来的德国儿童，斗志昂扬地站在一只踩碎的纳粹标志上。广场下面埋葬着大约7000名红军士兵的骸骨，广场四周有16座设有底座的石棺，每座石棺上都刻着斯大林的名言，并装饰着苏维埃英雄主义主题的浮雕。画面内容大都是簇拥成沙丁鱼群形状、挎着机枪的战士或扔手榴弹的儿童，看起来颇有些眼熟，仿佛是希腊雕塑技术与社会现实主义宣传画结合起来的效果。
To lighten the impact, venture down the street to the former Western district Kreuzberg, where you’ll find another kind of historical remnant, albeit newer in origin: several murals by the Italian street artist Blu, whose work here dates from 2006 to 2009. In one, a giant pink figure made of hundreds of tiny, writhing men looks out with hollow white eyes. In a city where public art can feel like history having an argument with itself, the murals act as an oversize color-blocked rejoinder to the monumental Soviet severity you just left behind. CHARLY WILDER
为了减轻这座雕塑对你的冲击，请沿着街道走到以前属于西柏林的克罗伊茨贝格区(Kreuzberg)。那里有另一种历史遗迹——意大利街头艺术家Blu的几幅壁画作品。当然它们的创作时间比纪念碑要晚一些，大约在2006至2009年。其中一幅壁画的内容是一个由数百个挣扎小人组成的粉红色巨型人像，每个小人都用空洞的白眼球向外张望。柏林城的许多公共艺术都表达了历史与自身互相辩论的主题，这些壁画也用巨大的色块对刚才那座纪念碑所展示的宏大苏维埃进行了有力的反驳。——Charly Wilder
Copenhagen
哥本哈根(Copenhagen)
Bakken amusement park
巴肯游乐园(Bakken amusement park)
Be careful as you step from Central Station and plan your big outing in the Danish capital. Across the street, the Tivoli Gardens are like a verdant vortex that sucks in all passing travelers, luring them with flashing lights, old-time rides and open-air concerts. Fortunately, a folksier, cheaper, larger and more historical alternative is tucked away to the north of the city. In a forested area known for revelry and entertainments since the late 1500s, Dyrehavsbakken, known as Bakken, bills itself as the world’s oldest amusement park.
当你走出中央车站，开始筹划自己的丹麦首都之旅时，请务必小心。车站对面的蒂沃利公园(Tivoli Gardens)仿佛一个枝繁叶茂的漩涡，将无数过路的旅行者都吸了进去，用它闪烁的彩灯、古老的木马和露天音乐会诱惑着大家。幸运的是，在该城的北部，还藏着一个面积更大、价格更低、气质更加亲和且有更多历史内容的娱乐园。巴肯游乐园（Dyrehavsbakken，简称Bakken）坐落在一片16世纪末期以来就以欢饮娱乐著称的森林里，自称世界上最古老的游乐园。
True or not, Bakken (bakken.dk) certainly has more Old World bona fides than its inner-city cousin, to say nothing of a more bucolic setting: some 2,700 acres of woodland filled with hiking paths, green fields and free-ranging deer. Better still, the price tag to enter Bakken is far lower: admission is free for all ages.
不管这种说法是否属实，巴肯游乐园(bakken.dk)与市区的那个游乐园比起来，确实拥有更多的旧世界元素，更不用说这里更加清幽的环境：大约2700英亩的森林里布满了徒步小径，到处可以看到草地和活泼自由的野鹿。更棒的是，进入巴肯游乐园的价格要低得多：任何年龄的游客都可免费进场。
Once inside, you’ll find everything from Bakkens Hvile, said to be the oldest remaining music hall in Denmark, to Scandinavia’s only “5D” cinema, where moving seats and special effects like wind, water and mist create a full sensory experience. But the marquee attraction is the vintage 80-year-old wooden roller coaster, one of the 30-plus rides spread across the grounds.
一旦走进巴肯游乐园，你会发现里面应有尽有，包括号称丹麦现存最古老音乐厅的巴肯音乐厅(Bakkens Hvile)和斯堪的纳维亚半岛唯一的5D电影院。影院使用移动座椅、风、流水和雾气等手段，为观众营造出全面的感官体验。但最吸引人的是有80年历史的木头过山车，这个游乐园的过山车一共有30多个。
The solidly middle-class park also draws some unusual characters each year. To celebrate Bakken’s opening day, generally in March, and the last day of its season, typically around the end of August, motorcyclists by the hundreds converge for a mass rally. For people who prefer to arrive by sleigh, Bakken has hosted the World Santa Claus Congress every summer since 1957. So, when the high-price, high-gloss, highly crowded Tivoli seems like too much, Bakken is indeed a gift. SETH SHERWOOD
这个以中产阶级为主要顾客的游乐园每年都能吸引一些不寻常的人物。为了庆祝巴肯每年的开园日（一般在3月份）和闭园日（一般在8月底），数百名摩托车手会在这里举行盛大聚会。如果你喜欢圣诞老人，1957年以来，巴肯每年夏天都会举办世界圣诞老人大会(World Santa Claus Congress)。所以，如果你接受不了价格高昂、品位高端又高度拥挤的蒂沃利公园，巴肯确实是个绝佳的选择。——Seth Sherwood
Istanbul
伊斯坦布尔(Istanbul)
Rumeli Castle
鲁梅利城堡(Rumeli Castle)
Rumeli Castle’s spires aren’t as heavily touted as those jutting from the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia, but this 560-year-old Ottoman fortress — across town from Galata, where tourists flock to buy spices at the Grand Bazaar — is no less spectacular. Nestled in Sariyer, a neighborhood on the European side of the city, the majestic, well-preserved fort, which is now a museum (entrance, 5 Turkish lira, or about $2.70 at 1.83 lira to the dollar), was built at the narrowest point of the Bosporus by Sultan Mehmed II, who originally positioned hundreds of soldiers at its gates and used it to control river traffic.
鲁梅利城堡的尖顶没有蓝色清真寺(Blue Mosque)和圣索菲亚大教堂(Hagia Sophia)的尖顶那样名声在外，但这座拥有560年历史、建于奥斯曼帝国时期的古堡与这两个名胜比起来却毫不逊色。鲁梅利城堡从城市南端的Galata区域开始，一直蔓延到主建筑所在的Sariyer。Galata是个游客聚居地，大巴扎(Grand Bazaar)市场是人们购买香料的热门场所。Sariyer位于伊斯坦布尔位于欧洲的那一侧，宏伟壮丽的鲁梅利城堡至今保存完好，并已改成一家博物馆（门票5土耳其里拉，根据美元对土耳其里拉1.83的汇率，约合2.70美元）。城堡处在博斯普鲁斯海峡(Bosporus)最狭窄的位置，建于奥斯曼帝国苏丹穆罕默德二世(Sultan Mehmed II)时代。刚建成的时候，穆罕默德二世部署了数百名士兵守卫在城堡的门口，监管海峡的航运。
Today, its location away from the city’s tourist centers usually keeps crowds at a minimum. Which is one of the reasons — in addition to the winding, woodsy paths inside and the unparalleled views of Istanbul — to go there. Rumeli’s canonical, tiered Halil Pasha Tower and its satellite watchtowers stand guard over a bench-lined maze of trees, steep staircases and crumbling steel doors. Catch a glimpse of the gloomy dungeon, then hike to the highest points and enjoy the spectacular view. The Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge sparkles to the left, while the green hills of Asia frame the sailboats, ferries and tanker ships chugging the Bosporus. Giant Turkish flags flutter proudly across the water, a beautiful sight at sunset. End the day with a 15-minute stroll down the water to Bebek, Istanbul’s chicest neighborhood, for a Turkish coffee or a raki, the cloudy liquor whose local popularity, much like Rumeli’s, has survived the ages. KAREN LEIGH
今天，鲁梅利城堡远离游客中心的位置让它最大限度地减少了人群的干扰。这也是我们造访这座古堡的原因之一。其他原因则是古堡内部蜿蜒曲折、林荫蔽日的徒步小径，以及从古堡看到的美不胜收的伊斯坦布尔风景。城堡威严高耸的哈利尔帕夏塔(Halil Pasha Tower)和周围散落的瞭望台守卫着树荫下设有长椅的树林、陡峭的台阶和斑驳的铁门。看看那阴郁的地牢，然后走到城堡的最高点，欣赏辽阔壮丽的风景。左侧的法提赫苏丹穆罕默德大桥(Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge)气势夺人，而亚洲那一边的青山则为博斯普鲁斯海峡的风景镶上了绿色的画框。一艘艘帆船、渡轮和集装箱游轮缓缓驶过海峡，阔大的土耳其国旗骄傲地飘扬在水域上空，落日的华彩让海峡成为一幅壮美的图画。临睡之前，漫步15分钟到土耳其最优雅的Bebek区域喝杯土耳其咖啡或拉基酒(Raki)，为一天画上完美的句号。拉基酒是当地很受欢迎的一种灰白色酒精饮品，像鲁梅利城堡一样陪伴当地人走过了数百年的风霜。——Karen Leigh
Krakow, Poland
波兰克拉科夫(Krakow, Poland)
Bunkier Sztuki Contemporary Art Gallery
艺术堡垒当代艺术画廊(Bunkier Sztuki Contemporary Art Gallery)
Visitors to Krakow might easily spend their entire trip within the confines of the Old Town’s medieval main square, where they’ll find the Gothic spires of St. Mary’s Basilica, the tiny early-Romanesque Church of St. Adalbert, and the Renaissance-style Cloth Hall, which today houses the National Museum’s Gallery of 19th-century Polish Art. For sustenance, it’s simple to land at one of the many restaurants and cafes that ring the square; most offer outstanding views and, predictably, overpriced food and drinks.
造访克拉科夫的游客常常将整个行程都花在老城区(Old Town)的中世纪广场，欣赏圣玛丽大教堂(St. Mary’s Basilica)的哥特式尖顶、小巧玲珑的早期罗兰式建筑圣阿德伯特教堂(Church of St. Adalbert)和文艺复兴风格的纺织会馆(Cloth Hall)。今天的纺织会馆是波兰国家美术馆的一部分，用来展览19世纪的波兰艺术。广场周围有许多饭店咖啡馆，逛累的时候随便选一家就可解饿解乏。几乎每家的窗外都能看到风景，当然食物和饮品价格都很高，请做好心理准备。
Instead, walk two blocks down Plac Szczepanski to the edge of the Old Town, where a blocky complex houses the Bunkier Sztuki Contemporary Art Gallery (bunkier.art.pl; admission 10 zloty, or about $3 at 3.25 zloty to the dollar). The structure is not dissimilar to a war bunker — hence, the name — and is one of the best places to track down contemporary art and cultural events in the city. Inside, you might see a simulation of the world after the fall of capitalism, or a site-specific Dada collage accessed through a long, dark hallway.
或者，你可以走两个街区，到达老城区边缘的Plac Szczepanski一带。那里有座结实的建筑，里面是艺术堡垒当代艺术画廊（Bunkier Sztuki Contemporary Art Gallery；bunkier.art.pl；门票10左罗提，根据美元兑波兰左罗提3.25的汇率，约合3美元）。建筑物看起来很像一座碉堡，这也是画廊名字的由来。艺术堡垒当代艺术画廊是了解克拉科夫城当代和文化活动的最佳场所之一，你可以看到资本主义衰落后的世界的缩影，或走过一个漫长黑暗的走廊之后欣赏设在特定场域中的达达主义拼贴画。
Outside, the museum’s adjoining Bunkier Café is a pleasant place for a light lunch or postgallery coffee break. With sandboxes for the children and Polish beers for their parents, it is a local favorite and a much cooler alternative to the crowded main-square spots. The mismatched tables set on a wide patio — enclosed and heated in the winter, open-air in the summer — provide ideal perches for people-watching as strollers cross the leafy Planty Park, which encircles the Old Town. INGRID K. WILLIAMS
走出画廊，你可以在隔壁的“堡垒小餐馆”(Bunkier Café)就着简易午餐或一杯咖啡来细细回味刚才的艺术体验。餐馆为孩童们准备了沙箱，为他们的父母准备了波兰啤酒，深受当地人欢迎。与广场一带人潮汹涌的旅游景点相比，这里显然是更酷的休闲目的地。餐馆有个宽阔的天井，夏天时露天开放，冬天则封闭起来并供应暖气。花木扶疏的Planty公园(Planty Park)设在老城区的四周，不时有行人在公园里散步。堡垒小餐馆摆满各式桌椅的天井则给顾客营造了看人和看风景的理想环境。——Ingrid K. Williams
Lisbon
里斯本(Lisbon)
It’s Not Just Fado
不只是法多(Fado)
For generations, Lisbon’s reputation has been wrapped up in fado, the centuries-old folk music that drifts like teary, windblown tissue from the city’s timeworn fado houses, which are de rigueur stops for travelers. Anyone who has spent an evening listening to those softly plucked guitars, lovelorn lyrics and wailing female vocalists will probably think that the Portuguese capital is a haven of heartbroken fishwives pining away for distant sailors.
数百年来，里斯本的名字总是与“法多”密不可分。法多是当地一种流传了几个世纪的民间音乐形式，风格沉郁低回，如泣如诉，仿佛一层薄纱在风中趔趄飘零。里斯本城中古旧的法多房(fado house)是旅行者聆听法多的惯例场所。任何人只要欣赏过那轻柔的吉他伴奏、忧伤失落的歌词和哀怨动人的女声唱腔，就会觉得葡萄牙的首都是心碎渔妇为远行水手憔悴哀叹的理想地点。
Banish those notions. Lisbon has a diverse live playlist that features everything from jazz to African music — if you know where to look.
请抛开这种成见。里斯本拥有非常丰富的音乐门类，从爵士乐到非洲音乐应有尽有——如果你知道到哪儿寻找的话。
“Right now there are some really cool things happening in Lisbon,” said Luís Filipe Rodriuges, music editor of Time Out Lisbon. “We also have an amazing free jazz scene.”
“现在里斯本有一些非常酷异的东西。”《Time Out》杂志里斯本分部的音乐编辑路易斯·菲利普·罗金斯(Luís Filipe Rodriuges)说，“我们还有非常棒的免费爵士表演。”
For instance, the venerable, well-respected Clube de Portugal (hcp.pt) has a densely packed program of Portuguese jazz bands, touring acts, jam sessions and performances by the house orchestra. For a lively night of percussive beats and dancing, there is the newly reopened B. Leza, (blogdibleza.blogspot.fr), an African club in a warehouse near the Tagus River. Live music from the Cape Verde islands is a particular specialty, along with singers and bands from Angola, Mozambique and Brazil. The spirited soundtrack is the perfect antidote to fado-induced melancholy. SETH SHERWOOD
以名望甚隆、广受尊重的葡萄牙俱乐部(Clube de Portugal, hcp.pt)为例。那里的节目单内容非常丰富，包括葡萄牙爵士乐队表演、巡回演出、摇滚乐即兴演唱以及俱乐部自家管弦乐队的演奏。想欣赏打击乐和舞蹈的话，请造访最近重新开业的B. Leza(blogdibleza.blogspot.fr)。这个非洲音乐俱乐部设在塔古斯河(Tagus River)附近的一个仓库里。来自非洲群岛国家佛得角的现场音乐是俱乐部的主打特色，此外还有来自安哥拉、莫桑比克和巴西的歌手和乐队。对法多引发的抑郁情绪来说，这些活力四射的音乐是种最佳的解毒剂。——Seth Sherwood
London
伦敦(London)
Rochelle Canteen
罗谢尔食堂(Rochelle Canteen)
Redchurch Street, a hub for the gentrification that has swept London’s East End in recent years, is usually filled with people who are browsing boutiques and enjoying flutes of vintage Champagne or gourmet coffee. Nearby, restaurants tout the occasional Michelin star and food to match anything you’d find in the traditionally tonier West End. But just off the main thoroughfare, on a peaceful circular plaza amid red-brick Victorian apartment blocks, is a restaurant that offers a brief glimpse at the unvarnished character of the area’s renaissance.
红教堂大街(Redchurch Street)是伦敦东区(East End)近几年旧城改造风潮的核心，经常挤满了喜欢浏览精品店和享受香槟酒或美味咖啡的人。在这里，饭店热情兜售着此地少有的米其林星级厨师和美味食品，努力向传统上更加高档和时髦的伦敦西区(West End)看齐。但只要走出主干道，你就能看到一个由维多利亚式红砖楼围成的幽静圆形广场，广场上某家饭店供应的菜肴，能让你对这个地区尚未消失的文艺复兴特征迅速拥有一个概要的了解。
The Rochelle Canteen is part of a former school that now houses a gallery, studio and event spaces (arnoldandhenderson.com). A locked green gate and a confusing panel of buzzers greet visitors intrepid enough to track it down. On a recent afternoon, a reporter had to wait for a delivery man to follow inside.
罗谢尔食堂所在的建筑是以前一所学校的一部分。现在学校内建有一家集画廊、工作室和展览空间为一体的机构 (arnoldandhenderson.com)。一扇紧锁的绿色大门和上面令人头晕的按键面板，迎接着那些有足够勇气找到它的游客。不久前一个下午，一名记者不得不在等来快递员后，才跟在后面进入。
Beyond the gate is a schoolyard and a modern European kitchen installed, along with a handful of tables, in a former bicycle shed. The bicycles are now locked up in the open, amid more tables occupied by a decidedly eccentric-looking group of diners. At 2 o’clock on a recent afternoon, a pair of dandies in full evening dress, down to bow ties and white scarves, devoured plaice with tomatoes and a green sauce, and roast partridge with pearl barley and artichokes, with every sign of enjoyment. At another table, a professorial-looking lady in black-framed glasses delivered a treatise on the history of flat-pack furniture.
走进大门，眼前是一个操场和设在操场上的摩登欧式厨房，以前的自行车棚里摆着几套桌椅。现在，那些自行车都锁在露天的地方，自行车外侧摆着更多的桌椅，衣着古怪的食客正在就餐。不久前的一天，下午两点钟左右，一对衣着讲究的绅士穿着正式的晚礼服，打着蝴蝶领结和白色领带，在这里大吃了一顿。他们就着番茄和绿色酱汁吃了鲽鱼，并饕餮了配有珍珠麦和洋蓟的烤松鸡，显然他们对这里的美味非常享受。另一张桌子前，一位戴着黑框眼镜、教授模样的女士，正就平板拼装家具发展史这个课题发表着激情洋溢的演讲。
The menu, as much hearty as it is arty, changes regularly. But on that afternoon it featured a perfectly spiced North African lamb stew, a delicate rabbit terrine and a rich honeycomb ice cream. All were priced at a maximum of £6.50 (about $10.25 at $1.58 to the pound) for appetizers and desserts, and £17.50 for entrees. RAVI SOMAIYA
这家餐馆分量十足且充满艺术感的菜单经常变化。但我造访的那个下午，餐馆的特色菜是加了辛辣香料的北非炖羊肉、小火慢炖的砂锅兔肉和风味浓厚的蜂巢冰淇淋。所有开胃菜和餐后甜品的价格都在6.50英镑以下（约合10.25美元，根据英镑对美元1.58的汇率），主菜价格最高17.50英镑。——Ravi Somaiya
Moscow
莫斯科(Moscow)
The All-Russian Exhibition Center
全俄罗斯展览中心(All-Russian Exhibition Center)
The hectic, honky-tonk Soviet fairground now called the All-Russian Exhibition Center — north of the city center and originally known as V.D.N.Kh., or the Exhibit of the Achievements of the National Economy — is peppered with monumental sculptures that brag of the glory of the Soviets.
那个苏维埃时代一度繁忙热闹的低档露天市场现在改了名字，唤作“全俄罗斯展览中心”。它位于莫斯科市中心的北部，以前叫做VDNKh，或者“国民经济成就展(Exhibit of the Achievements of the National Economy)”，里面随处可见的雕塑作品仿佛仍在夸耀着苏维埃时代的荣光。
In the ecstatic sculpture “Worker and Collective Farm Worker,” two figures, seemingly bursting with strength and promise, reach skyward, he with a hammer, she with a sickle.
在斗志昂扬的雕塑作品《工人和集体农场工人》(Worker and Collective Farm Worker)中，两位主角的身体简直要被力量和希望撑爆了，他们的手臂奋力上举，男士握着一只铁锤，女士举着一把镰刀。
Look for gorgeous details from the Stalin era, like rows of streetlights built in the shape of stalks of wheat, and the gilded dazzle of the Friendship of Nations Fountain. A fat stack of grain gleams in the middle of it, ringed by golden maidens in native dress, holding their products aloft and celebrating their luck at being born Soviet.
如果你想寻找斯大林时代的特色细节，请别错过一排排麦捆形状的街灯和金光灿烂的民族友谊喷泉(Friendship of Nations Fountain)。一束粗壮的庄稼在喷泉中央闪着金光，周围是一圈同样闪着金光的少女，她们身着不同的民族服装，手举着今秋的收成，正对自己有幸生在苏联而进行热烈的庆贺。
But what I especially like about the center (vvcentre.ru/eng) is how it has been reborn — reinvented, again and again, as Russia struggled for survival after the collapse of the Soviet Union. In the 1990s, small merchants moved into the cavernous spaces built as showcases for shipbuilding or electrification and set up stands selling homeopathic honey, and sugar-frosted deep-fried doughnuts, and televisions, and gem-encrusted silver jewelry from the Caucasus.
但我尤为喜欢的是展览中心改造的过程(vvcentre.ru/eng)。苏联解体后，俄罗斯人民在艰难求生的过程中将这个展览中心一次次重建，不断改变用途和主题。这个庞大幽深如洞穴般的建筑，当初建设的目的是展示苏联在造船业和电气化领域的成果。1990年代，小商贩们涌入这幢大楼，搭起各种摊点，出售顺势疗法专用的蜂蜜、挂满糖霜的油炸多纳圈、电视机以及高加索地区镶嵌着宝石的银饰。
Many of my favorite afternoons in Moscow have been spent in the pavilion built to celebrate Armenia, where the light slants through windows onto inlaid tables. Couples drink thick sweet coffee while a single violinist plays, and you pause and pause, and pause again, before venturing back outside. ELLEN BARRY
我的莫斯科之旅中，许多美妙的下午都在亚美尼亚主题展馆中度过。在那里，阳光斜斜地穿过窗棂，洒在装饰着嵌花的桌子上。一对对情侣坐在桌前，啜饮着醇美丰厚的甜咖啡。孤独的乐手拉着小提琴，你在乐声中沉醉，消磨，任时光肆意流逝，舍不得起身离开。——Ellen Barry
Paris
巴黎(Paris)
Pouic Pouic
Pouic Pouic小酒馆
Paris at daybreak has little to offer creatures of the night. But starting at 5 on Friday, Saturday and Sunday mornings, Pouic Pouic, a sliver of a bistro that opened last June in the St.-Germain-des-Prés neighborhood, serves serious food to post-party-goers with big appetites. Diners craving breakfast may go for ham-and-cheese omelets or maybe spaghetti carbonara (which is, after all, eggs and bacon with pasta instead of toast); meat lovers can opt for veal chops, cheeseburgers, steak tartare and entrecôtes.
对喜欢夜生活的人们来说，巴黎凌晨时分可以吃饭的地方并不多。但周五、周六和周日早上5点就开始营业的Pouic Pouic小酒馆，却可以为聚会散场的人们提供丰盛美味的菜肴。这家小酒馆去年6月开张，位于St.-Germain-des-Prés大街。想吃早餐的人可以点火腿芝士煎蛋饼，或一份卡邦尼意大利面（spaghetti carbonara，也即加了鸡蛋和熏肉的意面，而不是像常规的意面一样搭配烤面包片）。无肉不欢的顾客可以选择小牛排、芝士汉堡、鞑靼牛排和牛排骨肉。
Pouic Pouic — 9, rue Lobineau; (33-1) 43-26-71-95 — offers a larger selection at lunch and dinner, including starters like chicken and foie gras terrine, and main courses like squid ink pasta with mussels and wild chanterelle mushrooms, and pig cheek with creamy puréed potatoes.
Pouic Pouic(9, rue Lobineau; 33-1-43-26-71-95)也提供菜式丰富的午餐和晚餐，开胃菜有鸡肉和鹅肝酱，主菜则有加了贻贝、野生鸡油菌的黑酱意面和配有奶油土豆泥的猪脸肉。
The décor is simple, with dark wood walls and bright posters, and the atmosphere just noisy enough. From the round table near the kitchen you can watch the 25-year-old Romanian-born chef Michael Pascale make magic from his open kitchen. Jacques Damitio, the owner (and an ex-notary public and ex-winemaker) or Anne-Sophie, his English-speaking daughter, may join you for a chat. Expect to pay 35 to 45 euros for a three-course meal (a deal for Paris); the wine list is small, but creative and reasonably priced. A welcome alternative to familiar bistros overrun with Anglophone tourists. ELAINE SCIOLINO
餐馆的装修很简单，乌木墙上张贴着色彩明快的海报，环境有点嘈杂。坐在靠近厨房的圆桌前，你可以近距离欣赏25岁的罗马尼亚厨师迈克尔·卡斯卡(Michael Pascale)如何在开放式厨房里表演烹饪魔法。饭店老板雅克·达米提亚(Jacques Damitio)和他能讲英语的女儿安妮-苏菲(Anne-Sophie)可能会坐在桌前与你聊一会儿天。雅克·达米提亚经历丰富，以前做过公证员和酿酒师。在这里，一顿三道菜的正餐价格在35-45欧元之间（对巴黎来说这个价格很合算）。酒水的选项不多，但搭配得很有创意，价格也比较合理。鉴于巴黎讲英语的游客泛滥成灾，这家小酒馆算是一个不错的另类选择。——Elaine Sciolino
Ravenna, Italy
意大利拉文纳(Ravenna, Italy)
Basilica of San Vitale
圣维塔莱教堂(Basilica of San Vitale)
For all of the magnificence exhibited on the exterior of Florence’s Duomo — Brunelleschi’s dome, Giotto’s campanile, the ornate marble facade, the grand bronze doors — its interior is comparatively dull. After shuffling inside with swarms of tour groups, one discovers a hollow, cavernous hall with little of the artistic splendor that is displayed outside.
佛罗伦萨的大教堂(Duomo)拥有布鲁内莱斯基(Brunelleschi)设计的圆顶、乔托(Giotto)设计的钟楼、华美绚丽的大理石外墙和威严壮观的青铜大门。但与其富丽堂皇的外观相比，它的内饰显然枯燥多了。与成群结队的旅行团一起终于挤进教堂以后，我们看到一个空荡荡的大厅，教堂外表所展示的艺术特色在这里几乎没有丝毫体现。
So, why not leave this Renaissance masterpiece to its throngs of admirers and instead seek out a church with an interior as impressive as the Duomo’s exterior?
那么，为什么不离开这件文艺复兴时代的代表作，将它留给那成群结队的崇拜者，转而寻找内饰像佛罗伦萨大教堂外表一样漂亮的教堂呢？
Ravenna, on the country’s eastern coast — just a two-hour drive from Florence — was the seat of Byzantine power in Italy until the eighth century. Today, this handsome city attracts a relative trickle of tourists compared with the crowds that descend upon Florence. Yet hidden within Ravenna’s ancient structures are breathtaking mosaics, the most impressive of which can be found in the Basilica of San Vitale.
拉文纳位于意大利的东海岸，距离佛罗伦萨只有两小时的车程。在公元八世纪之前，拉文纳一直是拜占庭帝国在意大利的权力中心。与佛罗伦萨的游客规模相比，造访拉文纳的人显然非常小众。但拉文纳古老的建筑中隐藏着大量美妙精致的马赛克作品，其中最漂亮的就是圣维塔莱教堂里的马赛克墙饰。
Built in the sixth century, the Basilica of San Vitale (ravennamosaici.it; admission, 9.50 euros) is one of the finest examples of early Byzantine architecture. Although its small dome and unadorned facade are sober in comparison to Florence’s showy Duomo, its interior is awash in exquisite mosaics. In fact, the dazzling mosaics housed inside the church are regarded as among the most important Byzantine artworks that exist outside what is now Istanbul.
圣维塔莱教堂（ravennamosaici.it；门票9.50欧元）建于公元六世纪，是早期拜占庭建筑艺术最杰出的代表。尽管它矮小的圆顶和平淡无奇的外墙没有佛罗伦萨大教堂那么耀眼，但它的内部却到处都是精致的马赛克墙饰。事实上，这座教堂的马赛克是伊斯坦布尔以外当今世界最重要的拜占庭艺术作品。
Gaze upon the bold hues enlivening the early Christian iconography, which incorporates styles from both ancient Rome and medieval Europe (see depictions of Christ both bearded and beardless). Admire the glittering tiles of green and gold that depict the Byzantine emperor Justinian; his wife, Theodora; and their considerable entourage. And above all, savor the delicious calm over which these figures now rule. INGRID K. WILLIAMS
凝神细看，墙上大胆的色彩将早期基督教人物描绘得栩栩如生，人物形象涵盖了古罗马和欧洲中世纪两种风格（请看留了胡子和不留胡子的两种耶稣基督形象）。闪亮的瓷片和金黄嫩绿的色彩，将拜占庭皇帝查士丁尼、皇后西奥多拉以及为数可观的随从做了细致入微的描绘。请欣赏这些技术高超的作品，最重要的是，请欣赏这些人物所在的地方那种令人心旷神怡的宁静。——Ingrid K. Williams
Regensburg, Germany
德国雷根斯堡(Regensburg, Germany)
Armin-Wolf baseball stadium
阿明沃尔夫棒球馆(Armin-Wolf baseball stadium)
Regensburg, at the confluence of the Danube and Regen rivers in eastern Bavaria, survived World War II largely intact — a lucky break, considering that it was the site of a Messerschmitt bomber factory. Today it’s one of Germany’s top tourist destinations, with a perfectly preserved medieval town center; the cathedral where Joseph Ratzinger, now Pope Benedict XVI, served as cardinal; a ruined Roman fort; and a famed cafe called Wurstküchen, beside the Danube, that’s been serving bratwurst and beer since 1320.
雷根斯堡位于巴伐利亚州(Bavaria)东部，多瑙河(the Danube)与雷根河(Regen rivers)交汇融合的地方。这个城市几乎以毫发无伤的方式挺过了“二战”的炮火，堪称一个幸运至极的奇迹——须知，生产梅塞施米特式战斗机(Messerschmitt)的工厂就位于雷根斯堡的南部。今天的雷根斯堡是德国最重要的旅游目的地之一，这里有保存完好的中世纪古城、现任教皇本笃十六世(Pope Benedict XVI)升任红衣主教时举办仪式的教堂、一座破败的罗马城堡，还有一个叫做Wurstküchen的小餐馆。这个餐馆位于多瑙河畔，1320年以来就一直为食客供应德国香肠和啤酒。
But why not take a break from Regensburg’s antiquities and travel 10 minutes beyond the city center to a very different sort of attraction: a baseball stadium. Opened in 1998 on the site of a former limestone quarry, the Armin-Wolf Arena, named after a local sportswriter and baseball booster, reflects Germany’s burgeoning fascination with America’s pastime.
但是，为什么不离开雷根斯堡这些古老的遗迹，漫步10分钟去市中心造访一个截然不同的目的地呢？阿明沃尔夫棒球馆位于以前的一个石灰岩采矿场上，1998年开业，名字取自当地一位积极推广棒球运动的体育新闻记者，反映了德国民众对这项美式运动迅速攀升的热情。
This 4,500-seat stadium, with its groomed infield and outfield, red-clay base paths and 400-foot center-field wall, could hold its own with any Double-A minor league ballpark in the United States. And the level of play, while hardly up to American standards, is rapidly improving. The Regensburg Legionäre (named after the Roman emperor Marcus Aurelius’s third legionnaires, stationed in this distant outpost of the Roman Empire beginning in the second century) won the German championships for the third year in a row in 2012. Several of their alumni have signed United States Major League contracts, including the outfielder Max Kepler, an $850,000 bonus baby now playing in the Minnesota Twins farm system. The 2013 baseball season begins next April. JOSHUA HAMMER
这个能够容纳4500名观众的棒球馆拥有保养细致的内场外野、红土垒道和400英尺长的外野围墙，规格相当于美国可以举办双A级别赛事、有小型职业棒球队参加的棒球馆。这里棒球运动的水准虽然不能和美国相比，但近年来却在迅速提高。当地棒球队“雷根斯堡老兵”(Regensburg Legionäre)名字取自古罗马皇帝马可·奥勒留(Marcus Aurelius)的第三兵团。公元二世纪，第三兵团开始在这个远离罗马帝国中心的地方安营扎寨。2012年，雷根斯堡老兵队第三次赢得了德国棒球锦标赛的冠军，实现了2010年以来的三连冠。球队中几名球员已和美国的知名球队签约，外场手马克斯·开普勒(Max Kepler)加入明尼苏达双子队(Minnesota Twins)时拿到了85万美元的转会费。2013年的棒球赛季从明年4月开始。——Joshua Hammer
Rome
罗马(Rome)
Shopping
购物
If Via Condotti, with its big-name labels, is not your style (or your price point), there are lots of smaller boutiques clustered on a few choice streets in the historic center, where they share space with antiques dealers and plenty of cafes to stop in for a coffee.
如果名牌云集的康多提大道(Via Condotti)与你的风格（或你的钱包）不太搭配，罗马老城区的几条大街仍有许多小型精品店供你挑选。这些街道上还有许多古董艺术品店和小餐馆，让你在逛累的时候就着一杯咖啡稍作休息。
The streets around the Pantheon, and Via Urbana in the Monti neighborhood of Rome near Santa Maria Maggiore, are lined with small boutiques with offbeat “Made in Italy” brands like a. b., Malloni and Reset, as well as upscale Spanish brands like Hoss.
罗马万神殿(Pantheon)一带的街道和圣母大教堂(Santa Maria Maggiore)附近Monti区域的乌尔班纳大道(Via Urbana)上，到处都是趣味别致的精品小店，出售的东西既有a. b.、Malloni and Reset等“意大利制造”的小众品牌，也有Hoss等高档西班牙品牌。
On Via Urbana, try DOP, at Via Urbana 25, (39-06) 4890-6412, and LOL (lolmodartedesign.com), both warm yet minimalist boutiques with everyday wear in muted colors. Near the Pantheon, Spazio Espanso, at Via dei Bergamaschi 59/60, (39-06) 9784-2793, and its nearby sister shops Sempre, at Piazza della Pigna 7, (39-06) 679-2879, and Mam, at Via delle Coppelle 73/A, (39-0668) 13-6168, feature slightly offbeat cashmeres, wools, silks and cottons. RACHEL DONADIO
乌尔班纳大道上的DOP小店(Via Urbana 25，39-06- 4890-6412)和LOL(lolmodartedesign.com)小店值得尝试。这两家精品店气氛温暖，风格极简，出售各种喑哑色调的日常服装和饰品。万神殿附近的小店Spazio Espanso(Via dei Bergamaschi 59/60, 39-06-9784-2793)及其相距不的姐妹店Sempre(Piazza della Pigna 7, 39-06-679-2879)和Mam(Via delle Coppelle 73/A, 39-0668-13-6168)出售略有些标新立异的开司米羊绒、羊毛和棉布产品。——Rachel Donadio
Stockholm
斯德哥尔摩(Stockholm)
Magasin 3
Magasin 3画廊
This year, Stockholm’s top must-see art event was not held at the stately Nationalmuseum or at the city’s well-regarded modern art museum, Moderna Museet. Instead, those cognoscenti flocked to a pier on the outskirts of the city to see a solo exhibition from the Chinese artist and activist Ai Weiwei at Magasin 3 (magasin3.com; admission, 60 Swedish kronor, about $8.85 at 6.8 krona to the dollar), a gallery in an industrial warehouse near the ferry terminal where cruise ships arrive from Riga and St. Petersburg.
今年，斯德哥尔摩不可错过的顶级艺术活动不是在宏大的国家博物馆举办，也不是在该城备受尊重的现代美术馆Moderna Museet。当地喜欢艺术的鉴赏家纷纷走向郊外的一个码头，到一家叫做Magasin 3（magasin3.com; 入场费60瑞典克朗，根据美元对瑞典克朗6.8的汇率约合8.85美元）的画廊去欣赏中国艺术家、社会活动家艾未未的个人作品展。画廊位于渡船码头附近的一个仓库里，码头附近停泊着来自里加(Riga)和圣彼得堡(St. Petersburg)的游轮。
It’s in this out-of-the-way location that Magasin 3 has been staging exhibitions from significant contemporary artists for 25 years. Past shows have featured international art-world luminaries, including Walter De Maria, Juan Muñoz and Bruce Nauman. Currently, the gallery is hosting an exhibition of works by the German artist Anton Henning, who dabbles freely in stylistic imitation and voyeurism. It is called “Too Much Skin, Taste & Turpentine” (through Dec. 9).
25年来，Magasin 3一直在这个偏僻的地方为来自世界各地的杰出艺术家举办各种当代艺术展，包括沃尔特·德·马丽尔(Walter De Maria)、胡安·穆诺斯(Juan Muñoz)和布鲁斯·诺曼(Bruce Nauman)等艺术明星。画廊现在展出的是德国艺术家安东·亨宁(Anton Henning)的作品，他用俏皮的模仿和窥阴癖般的洞察，创造出洒脱自由的作品。展览的名字叫“太多的皮肤、品味和松节油”（Too Much Skin, Taste & Turpentine，2012年12月9日结束）。
After admiring the art, visitors can browse the shelves in the gallery’s library, sip espresso and nibble on homemade cakes in the cafe, or contemplate the appropriateness of scaling the celadon monkey bars — actually, a sculpture by the Swedish artist Truls Melin — that are outside. INGRID K. WILLIAMS
欣赏过艺术之后，访客可以浏览画廊内设图书馆的图书，在小餐馆里就着浓咖啡品尝家常小点心，或者琢磨爬到室外那个灰绿色的攀爬架上是否合适——事实上，那个攀爬架是瑞典艺术家特鲁尔斯·梅林(Truls Melin)的作品。——Ingrid K. Williams