好英语网米其林美食与新的消费殿堂：一个等待游人的巴黎
The future is looking bright for the award-winning chef Thibault Sombardier.
在金奖大厨吉伯·桑巴蒂尔看来，未来一片光明。
Last year, under financial pressure from successive coronavirus lockdowns and restrictions on hospitality businesses, the owners of Antoine restaurant on the Right Bank — where Mr. Sombardier had won a Michelin star for his inventive seafood dishes — decided to sell the decade-old establishment, which had regaled everyone from French politicians to tennis star Serena Williams.
去年，由于一连串的新冠防疫封锁和限制给款客业造成的财务压力，右岸Antoine餐厅——桑巴蒂尔在那里凭借创造性的海鲜菜品得到了一颗米其林星——的所有人决定将已经营十年的店出售，从法国政要到网球明星塞蕾娜·威廉姆斯的许多人曾在这里进餐。
曾经是巴黎证交所的古老建筑经过日本建筑师安藤忠雄的改造，成为交易所-皮诺收藏馆。这里是过去两年里巴黎新开放的众多文化机构之一。
But on an afternoon in April, Mr. Sombardier struck a remarkably positive tone about the current Paris dining scene and his latest project, a chic Left Bank bistro called Les Parisiens.
但4月的一个下午，桑巴蒂尔对当前巴黎餐馆业状况以及他的最新项目——别致的左岸小馆Les Parisiens显得很有信心。
“People are keen to discover the latest spots,” he said. “Things are going well in Paris. The crowds are out. I’m optimistic.”
“大家都渴望发现最新的地方，”他说。“巴黎的情况不错。人们开始出门了。我很乐观。”
“We’re looking at a lovely year,” he said.
“这将是愉快的一年，”他说。
It is a sentiment that one hears more frequently in Paris these days. Masks are off (except in hospitals and retirement homes), and proof of vaccination is no longer required in restaurants, bars, museums, concert venues and public transportation. (Updated information on coronavirus measures can be found on the Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau website.) Pressing between the weekend crowds in the Marais or Saint Germain-des-Près neighborhoods, you might almost believe that it was 2019 again.
近段时间，像这样的情绪在巴黎越来越常见了。摘掉了口罩（除了医院和养老院），餐馆、酒吧、博物馆、音乐演出场所和公共交通不再需要出示疫苗接种证明。（巴黎旅游与会议促进局网站上可以找到有关新冠防疫的最新信息。）挤在玛莱或圣日耳曼德佩区的周末人群里，你几乎会以为回到了2019年。
New retail temples and art à go-go
新的零售殿堂与艺术去处
The most long-awaited Paris project has been the rebirth of Samaritaine, a classic belle epoque department store perched along the Seine. Owned by the global luxury group LVMH (whose chief executive, Bernard Arnault, is France’s richest man), the 19th-century landmark closed in 2005 to address structural issues and wound up sitting idle for the better part of 16 years.
巴黎最受期待的项目是Samaritaine的重生，这家经典的“美好年代”百货公司位于塞纳河畔。这个19世纪地标由国际奢侈品集团LVMH所有（其首席执行官贝尔纳·阿尔诺是法国首富），由于存在结构问题于2005年关闭，接下来16年大部分时间处于闲置状态。
Unveiled in June of last year, the multibuilding, multilevel new version is a cathedral of consumption, encased in Art Nouveau and Art Deco detailing. If the idea of exploring the building’s more than a dozen restaurants, a 5-star hotel (Cheval Blanc; doubles in May from around 1,450 euros, or about $1,500), a spa, a perfume atelier, a VIP lounge and scores of shops selling around 700 brands sounds too intimidating on your own, consider a 90-minute guided tour (15 euros).
去年6月公布的多建筑、多楼层改造计划，将这里变成一座用新艺术风和装饰艺术修饰的消费殿堂。其中有十多间餐厅、一家五星级酒店（5月的大床房价格在1450欧元，约合人民币10000元）、一间水疗中心、一间香水工作室、一间VIP休息室和数十家商铺，出售约700个品牌的商品，如果自己去探索这一切显得有些困难，可以考虑90分钟的导游服务（15欧元）。
Not to be outdone, France’s second-richest man, François Pinault, last year opened his own magisterial establishment in a historical icon. Housed in the centuries-old circular building that was once Paris’s stock exchange, his new museum, known as the Bourse de Commerce-Collection Pinault (14 euros admission), was renovated by the Japanese architect Tadao Ando and contains works from Mr. Pinault’s vast holdings in contemporary art, including Sigmar Polke canvases, Dan Flavin lighting tubes and Urs Fischer sculpture.
法国富豪榜上位列第二的弗朗索瓦·皮诺不甘落后，去年在一座著名老建筑里开了自己的权威展厅。这座曾经是巴黎证交所的圆形建筑有数百年历史，皮诺在其中布置了他的新博物馆，名为“交易所-皮诺收藏馆”（门票14欧元），由日本建筑师安藤忠雄设计，馆内陈列了皮诺的庞大当代艺术收藏中的作品，包括西格玛尔·波尔克的油画、丹·弗莱文的灯管作品以及乌尔斯·费希尔的雕塑。
The fashion mogul Agnes B. took a different tack, choosing a white modern building in Paris’s unfancy 13th Arrondissement to display her own extensive art collection, which runs the gamut from photographs by Man Ray to subway-style graffiti by Futura. Known as La Fab (7 euros admission), the space is currently showing “L’Enfance dans La Collection Agnes B.” (till June 30), a look at childhood through paintings, drawings, photos, sculptures and installations.
时装业巨子阿尼亚斯贝选择了不同的方式，在并不时髦的巴黎十三区选了一座白色现代建筑，展出她那涉猎广泛的艺术收藏，其中既有曼雷的摄影作品，也有Futura的地铁风涂鸦。这个名为La Fab（门票7欧元）的空间目前在举办“阿尼亚斯贝收藏中的童年”展（至6月30日），透过油画、素描、照片、雕塑和装置作品审视童年。
Old favorites, real and virtual
昔日最爱，有实体也有虚拟
Paris’s two marquee museums, the Musée du Louvre (17 euros admission) and the Musée d’Orsay (14 euros), are very much open.
巴黎的两个大型博物馆——卢浮宫博物馆（门票17欧元）和奥赛博物馆（门票14欧元）——基本上都开放了。
Among the special exhibitions are “Yves Saint Laurent at the Louvre,” showcasing some of the French fashion designer’s most exquisite creations (through Sept. 19) at the former royal palace, and “Pharaoh of the Two Lands,” dedicated to the 8th-century B.C. Nubian-Egyptian empire of King Piankhy (through July 25). Across the Seine at the Musée d’Orsay, “Gaudì” (through July 17) offers a wide-ranging retrospective of the Spanish architect though artworks, furniture and more.
近期的特别展览包括“圣罗兰在卢浮宫”，在曾为皇宫的卢浮宫展示这位法国时装设计师的一些最精美的作品（至9月19日），还有专门介绍公元前8世纪努比亚-埃及帝国皮安基国王的“两地的法老”（至7月25日）。在塞纳河对岸的奥赛博物馆，“高迪”（至7月17日）通过艺术、家具等作品回顾了这位涉猎广泛的西班牙建筑师。
And while Notre Dame cathedral remains closed for reconstruction in the wake of a 2019 fire, a virtual-reality recreation in the La Defense neighborhood offers an alternative chance to visit the iconic medieval Gothic structure. Known as “Eternelle Notre-Dame,” the 45-minute “tour” (from 20.99 euros per ticket) immerses visitors in fully digitized renderings of the cathedral from the Middle Ages up to the present.
虽然巴黎圣母院在2019年的一场大火后仍因重建而关闭，但拉德芳斯区的虚拟现实休闲活动提供了另一种参观这座标志性中世纪哥特式建筑的机会。时长45分钟、名为《永恒的圣母院》的“游览”（门票20.99欧元起），让游客沉浸在从中世纪到现在的大教堂的全方位数字渲染体验中。
Haute cuisine and gourmet street food
高级料理和街头美食
On the dining front, the loftiest new experience might be Les Ombres restaurant atop the Musée du Quai Branly-Jacques Chirac, which combines the skills of France’s biggest name in architecture and the nation’s most famous restaurateur. Conceived by Jean Nouvel and now run by the Alain Ducasse team, the avant-garde, glass-roofed dining room serves up a 110-euro dinner menu of French classics (including white asparagus, foie gras and duck breast) amid the shifting natural light and shadows that Nouvel’s design accentuates. But the main attraction is the view of the Eiffel Tower.
在餐饮方面，最高端的新体验可能来自位于布朗利河岸-雅克·希拉克博物馆顶部的“影子”餐厅(Les Ombres)，这里集合了法国最大牌建筑师和最著名的餐馆经营者的实力。由让·努维尔设计、目前由阿兰·杜卡斯团队经营的空间，用不断变化的自然光影穿透其前卫的玻璃屋顶。餐厅供应110欧元的法式经典晚餐菜单（包括白芦笋、鹅肝和鸭胸）。但其最大亮点是埃菲尔铁塔的景色。
Mr. Ducasse and other Paris culinary stars have also been busy creating new spots that attempt to elevate street food, fast-food and desserts. To assemble an affordable Paris-wide meal, try the signature item (15 euros) at Yannick Alléno’s upscale grill (Burger Père et Fils par Alléno) and a superloaded croque monsieur (8.50 euros) at one of the new Croq’Michel outlets from “Top Chef” judge Michel Sarran. For dessert, you can hit the Bastille district for sorbet and more (6.50 euros) from Mr. Ducasse’s first ice-cream shop (La Glace Alain Ducasse) and an oven-fresh choux (2 euros) from Tapisserie pastry shop, the latest neighborhood offering from Septime chef Bertrand Grébaut.
杜卡斯和其他巴黎美食明星也一直忙于开办新餐厅，试图将街头食品、快餐和甜点进行升华。想要全面品味实惠的巴黎美食，可以试试雅尼克·阿莱诺的高级餐厅“阿莱诺父子汉堡”(Burger Père et Fils par Alléno)品尝招牌菜品（15欧元），以及在《顶级大厨》评委米歇尔·萨兰新开的“米歇尔三明治店”(Croq’Michel)用料实在的火腿芝士热三明治（8.5欧元）。甜点方面，你可以去杜卡斯的第一家冰淇淋店、位于巴士底的“阿兰杜卡斯冰淇淋”(La Glace Alain Ducasse)购买冰沙和其他甜点(6.5欧元)，以及由Septime厨师伯特兰·格雷鲍特主理的街区新店“挂毯”(Tapisserie)糕点店新鲜出炉的泡芙（2欧元）。
Luxury lodgings and cinematic stays
豪华酒店和富有电影感的住宿
Big things are also afoot in the world of lodging, and not just the gargantuan new 32-story, 957-room Pullman Montparnasse (doubles in June from around 280 euros) or the 10,700-square-foot penthouse atop the 76-room Bulgari Hotel Paris (1,700 euros) along fashionable Avenue Georges V.
在住宿方面，也有一些大事件正在酝酿，这不仅限于新开业的32层、957间客房的超大型酒店蒙帕纳斯铂尔曼（6月的大床房一晚价格约为280欧元），或是时髦的乔治五世大街上拥有76间客房的宝格丽酒店的顶层套房（1700欧元）。
Hotel Paradiso (from 170 euros), owned by the MK2 movie-theater chain, was conceived with input from local creatives — including the street artist J.R., the musician-director Woodkid, and the coffeehouse developer Marc Grossman. The property, near Place de la Nation, features 36 rooms equipped with video screens, high-tech projectors and a library of films. Additional entertainment awaits on the rooftop bar and in the private karaoke room.
天堂酒店（170欧元起）归MK2连锁影院所有，其设计灵感来自当地创意人士，包括街头艺术家J.R.、音乐人兼导演Woodkid、以及咖啡馆开发商马克·格罗斯曼。这家酒店毗邻民族广场，有36间客房，客房内均配备了视频屏幕、高科技投影仪和海量电影收藏。屋顶酒吧和私人卡拉OK厅也能提供额外的娱乐活动。
Petite Paris: Indie, intimate and international
小巴黎：独立、私密和国际化
To find Paris’s smaller new gems, follow the scent of roasting vegetables and foreign culinary accents. In Bastille, you might just find yourself at a candlelit table, loaded with African-influenced pescatarian delights, at Persil. The menu from the chef Kumpi Lo may feature Mikaté (Congolese fried dough balls of shredded cod with violet purée; 22 euros) and a lush sweet-potato gratin with truffle butter, Cheddar and tofu (19 euros).
要寻找巴黎最新的小亮点，还得追随烤蔬菜的香味和外国厨师的口音。在巴士底，你可能会发现自己坐在Persil的烛光餐桌前，桌上摆满了非洲风味的鱼素美食。主厨库姆皮·洛的菜单上可能会有米卡特（Mikaté，来自刚果的紫色果泥拌鳕鱼丝炸丸子，22欧元），以及配有松露黄油、切达干酪和豆腐的美味焗甘薯（19欧元）。
Or you might end up in the dark confines of Stéréo wine bar, near Pigalle. Though not strictly vegetarian, the menu will win over carnivores with meatless morsels — roasted carrots with coconut curry (10 euros); grilled pumpkin with honey, tahini, hazelnuts and pomegranate seeds (10 euros) — cooked up by the Bangladeshi chef Swaran Joshi.
或者，你也可能置身于皮加勒区附近Stéréo酒吧的黑暗角落。虽然不是严格的纯素，但孟加拉大厨斯瓦兰·乔希烹制的无肉小菜——椰子咖喱烤胡萝卜（10欧元）；配上蜂蜜、芝麻酱、榛子和石榴籽的烤南瓜（10欧元）——即使肉食动物也会喜爱。
And if you can’t afford a round-the-world airline ticket, book one of the 31 colorful, ethno-chic rooms at Babel, whose lobby and restaurant in Belleville feel like a combination of a Rajasthan tent camp and a Moroccan tea salon (nightly rates in June around 135 euros). After a meal of Middle Eastern hummus (6 euros), Aleppo terrine (lamb, dried apricots, spices; 12 euros) and Croatian wine, you might reasonably ask: Am I getting frequent-flier miles for this?
如果买不起环游世界的机票，你可以在拥有31间客房的巴别酒店预定一个色彩缤纷、充满民族风情的房间。这家酒店位于美丽城，其大堂和餐厅的风格就像是拉贾斯坦邦的帐篷营地和摩洛哥茶室的结合（6月的一晚价格约为135欧元）。享用一顿中东鹰嘴豆泥（6欧元）、阿勒颇沙锅（有羊肉、杏干和香料；12欧元）和克罗地亚葡萄酒之后，你大可以问自己：我能因此获得常旅客里程数吗？
“The Tower of Babel brought together all the nationalities of the world,” said the manager Johan Diony on a recent afternoon. “This is what we are trying to do here at the hotel.”
“‘巴别塔’曾汇集世界上的所有民族，”该酒店的经理约翰·狄奥尼在近日的一个下午说。“而这就是我们酒店正在尝试做的事情。”