好英语网36小时玩转牛津
OXFORD is not a college town — it is the college town. Its namesake university’s 38 colleges are so steeped in scholarly history they make Harvard and Yale seem like baby-faced freshmen. To wit: Oxford’s New College was last considered “new” in the 14th century. (Even the obsolete term “New World” is newer.) Students here get into the act, many dressing in tweed coats, sometimes even with elbow patches, and ordering pints of cask ale at pubs that have been in business for nearly four-fifths of a millennium. But Oxford has a modern side, too: night spots blare house and electronic music; restaurants serve modern takes on local food and exotic ethnic cuisine; and comfortable boutique hotels and bed-and- breakfasts beat medieval lodging houses for comfort any day. (Just don’t ask for a place to hitch your horse.)
牛津不只是一座大学城——它是“那座”大学城。令它得名的大学拥有38所学院，其学术历史是如此厚重，以至于哈佛与耶鲁大学与之相比，简直就像是长着娃娃脸的新生。就拿牛津的新学院（New College）来说吧，上一次人们认为它太“新”，那是14世纪时的事情（就连“新世界”这种已经过时的说法都更加新鲜）。在这里的学生也乐于追随学校的传统，不少人穿着粗花呢大衣，有时还是手肘上带补丁的款式，泡吧时点上几品脱桶装啤酒，这种啤酒已经有近800年历史了。同时牛津也是个现代的小城：夜店里播放的是House风格的电子乐；餐馆里提供用现代做法烹饪的当地菜式和各种外国风味饮食；而舒适的精品酒店和提供床位与早餐的中世纪民宿，可以随时为游客提供宾至如归的服务（不过你可别让店家找个地方拴马）。
基督教会学院里的守门人。
Friday
星期五
3 p.m.
下午3点：
1. WONDERLAND? HOGWARTS?
仙境？霍格沃兹？
It’s hard to admire Christ Church college for what it really is — the hallowed halls of learning where Sir Christopher Wren, John Locke, William Penn and 13 British prime ministers were educated. That’s because it’s the place that stood in for the Hogwarts School of Witchcraft and Wizardry in several “Harry Potter” movies. And the place where the math tutor Charles Dodgson concocted the story he would publish under the pseudonym Lewis Carroll as “Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland.” Following the tourist route through courtyards, gardens and halls costs £8, or $12.30 at $1.54 to the pound (www.chch.ox.ac.uk/visiting), but it’s worth it, if for nothing else than to visit the soaring dining hall that served as a model for Hogwarts ... er, where centuries of brilliant students have sought sustenance.
你很难领略到基督教会学院（Christ Church college）这座学府的实质——它是一座神圣的学习殿堂。克里斯托弗·雷恩爵士（Christopher Wren）、约翰·洛克(John Locke)、威廉·潘恩(William Penn)和13位英国首相都在曾这里接受过教育。这是因为在几部《哈利波特》电影中，这里都被用作拍摄霍格沃兹魔法与巫术学校的场景。也正是在这座学院里，数学老师查尔斯·道奇森(Charles Dodgson)构思出了一个故事，后来他用笔名刘易斯·卡罗尔(Lewis Carroll)发表了这篇名为《爱丽丝梦游仙境》的书。使用导游服务参观校园的天井、花园和大厅，费用为8英镑（合12.30美元），参观池塘收费1.54美元(www.chch.ox.ac.uk/visiting)，但此行值回票价，即使什么都不为，仅仅是去拜访一下居高临下的餐厅都足矣，这里是霍格沃兹学院的原型……。呃，世世代代以来，那些聪明的学生都要到这里觅食。
7 p.m.
下午7点：
2. A BITTER TOUR
苦旅
Take a pub crawl through Oxford’s most traditional pubs, like the classic student haunts Kings Arms (40 Holywell Street); the ancient, low-ceilinged Turf Tavern (4-5 Bath Place); and the central White Horse (52 Broad Street). You will fit in more (or at least remember them better) by ordering “a half of bitter” instead of a full pint: it’s always precisely half the price. (Full pints cost around £4.) When you’re ready for dinner, go to C. S. Lewis’s and J. R. R. Tolkien’s former hangout, the Eagle and Child (49 St. Giles). You’ll have to order at the bar, but don’t let that deter you: this is a legitimate kitchen operation. The beef rib pie (£9.95) is topped with ultra-flaky pastry, and the sticky toffee pudding (£3.75) is divine. Watch the clock, though — at some spots the bartenders call “Time!” as early as 11 p.m.
在牛津最传统的酒吧间穿行，比方说学生最爱去的Kings Arms(40 Holywell Street)；古老的、屋顶很低的Turf Tavern(4-5 Bath Place)；还有位于城中心的White Horse(50 Broad Street)。想要跟周围的人打成一片（或者至少是为了日后忆起时记得更清楚），就不要点整整一品脱啤酒，而是叫“半品脱苦啤酒”(a half of bitter)：酒钱刚好是一半价钱（一品脱啤酒收费是4英镑左右）。准备吃晚饭了，那就去C.S.刘易斯和J.R.R.托尔金当年的老地方，餐馆名叫Eagle and Child(49 St. Giles)。你得在吧台点餐，别担心：这种做法合乎传统。牛仔骨派（9.95英镑）上面堆着一层超级酥脆的千层饼，厚重的太妃布丁（3.75英镑）味道好极了。不过得注意时间——到了夜里什么时候，酒保会大喝一声“时间到了！”最早可能会是晚上11点。
11 p.m.
晚上11点：
3. ECLECTIC SOUNDS
电音
Sure, pubs in England close at what for Americans is a frightfully early hour, but there are plenty of night-life options. Perhaps the best for live music is the Cellar (Frewin Court, 44-1865-244-761; cellaroxford.co.uk), right off the pedestrian-only Cornmarket Street and (you guessed it) down a flight of stairs. It’s a darkish den that attracts eclectic musical acts from house and electronic music to reggae and Balkan brass.
没错，英国的酒吧关门时间对美国人来说，实在早得吓人，但夜生活还是有充分的选择。现场音乐最好的地方要数Cellar(Frewin Court, 44-1865-244-761;cellaroxford.co.uk)，走到步行街Cornmarker街的尽头，（你猜的没错）再往下走一层台阶就到了。这是个阴暗的小房间，播放从House音乐到电子音乐，从雷鬼到巴尔干铜管乐的各种电子音乐。
Saturday
星期六
10 a.m.
上午10点：
4. CANAL PLUS
顺流而下
Rent a bike from Summertown Cycles (44-1865-316-885) for £18 a day (or two days for £24) and set out down the path that runs along the Oxford Canal, a narrow waterway lined with boats and filled with ducks, a popular destination for families out for a stroll. The canal leads out of central Oxford toward a series of picturesque villages with lots of places to stop for a beer or a bite. Wolvercote is one, but skip the pricey pubs and pick up some legitimate fish and chips for £4.20 from, of all places, the Chinese takeout spot Dak Bo (104 Godstow Road; 44-1865-310-439). Bike over to the nearby Thames River and choose a meadow for a picnic. The river will lead you back to town. Though the whole day is an easy ride, it is strongly advised to pretend you’re tired and stop on the way back at the Perch, which is well marked, in Binsey (Binsey Lane; 44-1865-728-891; the-perch.co.uk). Have a (relatively) cold ale at the picnic tables outside under the willow tree.
去Summertown Cycles(44-1865-316-885)租辆自行车，收费是每天18英镑（或两天24英镑），沿着牛津运河旁边的那条路骑行，这是一条狭窄的小河，河上满是小船和鸭子，这是一家老小出游常常选择的去处。小河从牛津城中心蜿蜒而出，流经几个风景如画的小村庄，有很多地方可让你驻足停留，去喝杯啤酒或吃点东西。其中一个是Wolvercote，不过你大可不必进那些收费昂贵的酒吧，可以去各种小店，尤其是卖中餐外卖的Dak Bo(104 Godstow Road; 44-1865-310-439)买一份味道很正宗的鱼和薯条，只消花4.2英镑。骑车去邻近的泰晤士河，找一块草坪来野餐。这条河将指引你回城。虽然这一整天骑车非常轻松，还是强烈建议你要装作很疲惫的样子，回去的路上在Perch歇息一会儿，地方很好找，就在Binsey路（Binsey Lane; 44-1865-728-891;the-perch.co.uk）。可以在外面的柳树下找张野餐桌，喝杯冰（冰只是相对而言）啤酒。
3 p.m.
下午3点：
5. THE NEW ASHMOLEAN
新阿什莫尔博物馆（Ashmolean）
If the Ashmolean (Beaumont Street; 44-1865-278-002; ashmolean.org) wasn’t Oxford’s prize museum before it was largely rebuilt (maintaining only one building from 1845) and reopened, by the queen no less, in December 2009, it is now. There’s twice as much display space, much of which is used for the new Galleries of Ancient Egypt and Nubia, which opened just last November. It displays twice as many coffins and mummies, the vital statistic in any pharaoh-related exhibition. Especially curious are the coffins that mesh Roman and Egyptian styles, a sign of the surprising intermixing of cultures. Also notable is the “Crossing Cultures Crossing Time” exhibition, which uses the museum’s wide-ranging collection to break displays down by theme (textiles, reading and writing, the human image).
2009年12月，获得女王拨款的阿什莫尔博物馆(Beaumont Street; 44-1865-278-002;ashmolean.org)在进行了大规模重建（只保留了一座建于1845年的建筑）后重新开放，如果说它此前算不上牛津最重要的博物馆，那么现在一定算是了。博物馆的展览面积翻了一番，新增的空间主要来自新建的古埃及和努比亚展馆，新馆已于去年11月对外开放，所展出的棺柩和木乃伊数量比原先多了一倍，而这些正是与法老王相关的展览中最关键的衡量依据。其中最引人瞩目的是融合了罗马和埃及风格的棺木，这是多文化交融一个令人称奇的标志。另外值得一看的是“穿越文化穿越时间”(Crossing Cultures Crossing Time)展，展览使用了范围极广泛的藏品，按主题（纺织品、阅读写作、人类形象）来进行打通展览。
7 p.m.
傍晚7点：
6. PLAY TIME
戏剧时间
Oxford is not just a university town, it’s a theater town. Among the many choices are the Oxford Playhouse (11-12 Beaumont Street; 44-1865-305-305; oxfordplayhouse.com) for drama and comedy; the 1,800-seat New Theater Oxford (George Street; newtheatreoxford.org.uk) for Broadway-style musicals as well as concerts and ballet; and the cozy Pegasus Theater (Magdalen Road; 44-1865-812-150; pegasustheatre.org.uk), which turns 50 this year and features drama, comedy and dance.
牛津不仅仅是大学城，它还是座戏剧城。在众多选择中，你可以去如下几处剧院，比如Oxford Playhouse (11-12 Beaumont Street; 44-1865-305-305;oxfordplayhouse.com) 看戏剧和喜剧；拥有1800张座椅的New Theater Oxford(George Street;newtheatreoxford.org.uk)看百老汇风格的音乐剧以及音乐会和芭蕾舞；闲适的Pegasus Theater(Magdalen Road; 44-1865-812-150;pegasustheatre.org.uk)观看戏剧、喜剧和舞蹈，这个剧院即将庆祝50岁的生日了。
9 p.m.
晚上9点：
7. A TASTE OF SLOVAKIA
品尝斯洛伐克味道
Fish and chips and beef rib pie can only satisfy for so long. Luckily, Oxford is also brimming with international restaurants, including the usual suspects (Lebanese, Thai, curry houses). But for an unusual experience, visit the cheery, whitewashed Moya (97 St. Clements Road; 44-1865-200-111; moya-oxford.co.uk), which serves the cuisine of Slovakia. (It also tries to pass itself off as a fancy cocktail bar, with significantly less success.) Try the “devil’s toast” (sourbread toast topped with smoked sausage, vegetables and a shockingly delicious patty of grilled goat cheese), a creamy beef goulash with paprika, and a doughy fruit dumpling with poppy seed sauce for dessert. Dinner for two costs about £50 without drinks.
鱼和薯条以及牛眼派恐怕再也没法让你满足了。好在牛津城里遍布各国餐馆，有些很常见（黎巴嫩、泰国、咖喱餐厅）。但如果想要获得与众不同的体验，可以去气氛欢快、四面墙刷得雪白的Moya(97 St. Clements Road; 44-1865-200-111;moya-oxford.co.uk),这里出品的是斯洛伐克美食（这家馆子还想转型成高尚的鸡尾酒吧，不过显然并不十分成功）。你可以试试“魔鬼吐司”(devil’s toast，酸面包吐司上搁着烟薰香肠、蔬菜和一片好吃得难以置信的烤山羊芝士)，外加一份香滑的、用红辣椒烹制的炖牛肉，最后叫份水果饺子配罂粟籽酱当甜品。两人晚餐，不含酒水，大概花费50英镑。
Sunday
星期天
10 a.m.
上午10点：
8. PRE-KINDLE COLLECTION
Kindle时代前的藏书
Long before students could carry 300 books around in their electronic readers, Oxford was lucky to have 300 books in its entire university library. That was the size of the original reading room at what would become the Bodleian Library (44-1865-277-224; www.bodley.ox.ac.uk), established in 1488. (The university system now has nine million.) Though there are rotating free exhibitions at the library, the £6.50 guided tour is well worth it to see the gorgeous old reading room, where the dusty (or perhaps regularly dusted) old volumes doubled perfectly for books of magic spells in one “Harry Potter” scene. If you ask to check one of the books out, you’ll hear the response King Charles I got when he asked the same question in 1645: No.
在学生们可以在电子阅读器上储存300本书之前很久，牛津幸运地在整间大学图书馆里拥有300册藏书。这间阅览室在1488年发展成为Bodleian图书馆（44-1865-277-224;www.bodley.ox.ac.uk）（现在该校总共拥有900万册藏书）。这间图书馆会交替举办免费展览，不过花6.5英镑由向导带着你去参观还是很值得，你可以看到高雅的老阅览室，那些尘封（或许定期有人掸去灰尘）的古籍实在太适合拍摄《哈利波特》电影中的魔法之书了。如果你想外借一本书，会得到1645年查尔斯一世问同样的问题所得到的那句答案：不行。
Noon
中午：
9. A RURAL MICHELIN STAR
乡村米其林星级餐厅
Take a cab 10 miles out of town to the Nut Tree Inn (44-865-331-253; nuttreeinn.co.uk), a small town spot with a big-time Michelin star. Buried away on what seems like a back road but is in fact Main Street in the village of Murcott, the restaurant is housed in a 15th-century building under a steeply pitched thatched roof. It is billed in faux-modesty as a traditional village pub by the owners, Mike and Imogen North, but traditional pubs don’t normally raise their own Tamworth and Gloucester Old Spot pigs, bake their own bread and make their own ice cream, or turn out splendid three-course meals like roast diver-caught scallops with apple salad and curry hollandaise, followed by pavé of local venison and a pistachio soufflé with chocolate ice cream. Dinner for two comes to about £90 without drinks.
叫辆出租车往城外走10英里，就到了Nut Tree Inn(44-1865-277-224;www.bodley.ox.ac.uk),这是小镇里一家顶级米其林星级餐厅。餐厅仿佛埋藏在一条后巷中，但其实那就是Murcott村的主干道。餐厅位于一幢15世纪的建筑内，房子有个斜度很大的茅草屋顶。餐厅洋溢着质朴的风味，主人迈克和伊默金·诺斯（Mike and Imogen North）夫妇想把它打造成传统农家酒吧，不过传统酒吧通常不会自己去饲养塔姆沃思猪和格洛斯特老花猪，亲手烤面包，自己去做冰淇淋，也不会烹调出精彩的三道菜正餐，比如烤制人工采集扇贝伴苹果沙拉和辣味荷兰汁，接下来是本地鹿肉排以及开心果舒芙蕾配巧克力冰淇淋。两人晚餐，不含酒水，大概花费90英镑。
IF YOU GO
住宿选择：
The Malmaison hotel (3 New Road; 44-1865-268-400; malmaison.com) used to be a prison, and many of its rooms are former cells. But no worries, they’ve been upgraded since then, all the way from penitentiary to boutique. Rooms in former cells start at £185 ($285); other rooms start at £135.
Malmaisonis酒店(3 New Road; 44-1865-268-400; malmaison.com)曾是监狱，很多房间以前都是牢房。不过别担心，这些房间都已经重新装修，从监狱升格成精品酒店。住在由牢房改装的房间，房费为185英镑（合285美元）；其他房间房费135英镑起。
The Burlington House (374 Banbury Road; 44-1865-513-513; burlington-hotel-oxford.co.uk), in the Summertown area of Oxford, is an easy bus ride from downtown. The 12-room inn is comfortable and stylish, and the complimentary made-to-order breakfasts (including a gourmet take on the full English) is one highlight; the other is the utterly attentive host named Nes. Doubles start at £92.
Burlington House(374 Banbury Road; 44-1865-513-513; burlington-hotel-oxford.co.uk)，位于牛津的Summertown地区，坐公交车从市区可以很轻松去旅馆。这个12间房的小旅馆既舒适又时尚，赠送的定做早餐（包含全套英式早餐，非常美味）是一大亮点；旅馆的另一大卖点是那位名叫奈斯、待客十分殷勤的老板。双人房房费92英镑起。
If you can plan your trip when classes are not in session (and they are in session only about half the year), you may be able to land a room in student housing through oxfordrooms.co.uk. Singles start at £30; rooms are available for up to four people.
如果你计划在学校没有开课时来旅游（他们每年只开课半年左右），也许能通过oxfordrooms.co.uk在学生宿舍订一间房。单人房30英镑起；房间最多可供四人居住。