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2020年最值得去的52个地方(二)

52 Places to Go in 2020(2)
2020年最值得去的52个地方(二)

11. National Parks, China

11. 中国的国家公园

China ramps up conservation efforts with a new system of national parks

中国通过新的国家公园体系加大环保力度
 

In 2020, the 47,500-square-mile Sanjiangyuan National Park will open to visitors in the Tibetan Plateau, a region famous for its headwaters and high density of elusive snow leopards. To protect the animals and maintain the park, more than 17,000 local herdsmen have been enlisted as salaried rangers. In the western provinces of Sichuan, Shaanxi and Gansu, the Giant Panda National Park will connect 67 panda reserves across 10,500 square miles. While it is difficult to observe the black-and-white bears in the wild, travelers can spot other endemic species like antelope, muntjac and Tibetan macaque, as well as volunteer as panda keepers at the Dujiangyan Panda Base. In Sichuan province in southwest China, the UNESCO-listed Jiuzhaigou National Park suffered a devastating earthquake in 2017, but the park is expected to fully reopen this year and showcase the scenic valley’s Tibetan villages, electric-turquoise lakes, waterfalls, alpine forests and snow-capped peaks.

到2020年,占地12.3万平方公里的三江源国家公园将在青藏高原对游客开放,青藏高原以河流发源地和高密度却行踪不定的雪豹而闻名。为了保护动物和维护公园,已有1.7万当地牧民被招募为带薪护林员。在西部省份四川、陕西和甘肃,大熊猫国家公园将连接67个大熊猫保护区,占地2.7万平方公里。虽然在野外很难观察到大熊猫,但游客可以见到其他当地物种如羚羊、麂和藏猕猴,还可以在都江堰大熊猫基地做志愿饲养员。在中国西南省份四川,被联合国教科文组织列为世界遗产的九寨沟国家公园在2017年遭受了灾难性的地震,但公园有望在今年全面重新开放,展示美丽山谷里的藏族村庄、碧绿的湖泊、瀑布、高山森林和积雪峰。

12. Lesotho

12. 莱索托

A quiet mountainous country is a wonderland for adventurers

宁静的多山国家是冒险家的奇境


The tiny country of Lesotho — a picturesque enclave of jagged desert mountains fully surrounded by South Africa — has been lost to most African itineraries. But things are changing in landlocked Lesotho, known as the “mountain kingdom,” where most residents, dressed in colorful traditional wool blankets, live in remote rural villages. Over the past decade the number of visitors has nearly doubled as the country has begun promoting tourism to grow its economy. A newly launched e-visa platform ismaking visiting easier than it was before.

风景如画的沙漠与山脉参差错落,弹丸之地莱索托是一个被南非包围的国中国,为大多数非洲旅行路线所遗漏。这里的大多数居民穿着五颜六色的羊毛毯,居住在偏远的乡村,然而内陆“山国”莱索托正在发生变化。在过去十年间,随着该国为了经济发展开始促进旅游业,游客数量几乎翻了一倍。新推出的电子签证平台使造访变得更为容易。

Visitors can explore ancient rock paintings at UNESCO-listed Maloti-Drakensberg Park, or take multiday pony treks to stay in remote thatch-hut villages. (Outfitters such as solar-powered Malealea Lodge arrange trips.) And in 2020, the capital, Maseru, is scheduled to open a new National Museum and Art Gallery in a three-story building shaped like a spiral aloe, an endemic plant. It will feature exhibits on Basotho culture, its handicrafts tradition and the nation’s first-ever digitized archives. 

游客可以在联合国教科文组织列为世界遗产的马罗提-德拉肯斯堡公园(Maloti-Drakensberg Park)探索古代岩画,或者进行几天的小马骑行,到达偏远的茅草小屋村落居住(由太阳能供电的Malealea Lodge等装备提供商可以安排行程)。到2020年,首都马塞卢计划在一幢三层建筑中开设新的国家博物馆和美术馆,该建筑形如当地特有植物螺旋芦荟。它将展出巴苏陀文化,其手工艺品传统和该国历史上第一个数字化档案。

13. Colorado Springs

13. 科罗拉多斯普林斯

The new Olympics museum is only one draw

新的奥运会博物馆不是唯一的景点


A gateway to alpine vacationlands since trains first arrived in 1871, Colorado Springs springs anew in 2020. In April, the $90 million U.S. Olympic & Paralympic Museum opens, with a design by Diller Scofidio + Renfro, the architects behind the reinvention of the Museum of Modern Art. Another opening, this one in autumn, will be up on 14,115-foot Pikes Peak, where the new zero-energy Pikes Peak Summit Complex, sheathed in weathering steel and sandstone quarried in New Mexico, will give travelers a ptarmigan’s-eye view of the panorama from 30-foot-high windows. Hungry? The city’s emergent locavore food scene is another draw: Bakers at Nightingale Bread mill their own organic heirloom grain (much of it from Colorado’s San Luis Valley) at Lincoln Center, a new market hall tucked into a 1948 former elementary school. At Four by Brother Luck — whose namesake chef has appeared on “Chopped” and “Top Chef” — dishes are inspired by the indigenous foods of the Four Corners region, including Ute tribe blue cornbread with wojapi (berry sauce). You’ll find trout from Front Range streams on the menus at the recently renovated Broadmoor, a pink stucco Italian Renaissance-style resort that looms over the landscape like a fever dream of Gold Rush-era miners.

自从1871年火车开通以来,科罗拉多斯普林斯便成为了高山度假胜地的门户,2020年,它将以焕然一新的面貌迎接客人。耗资9000万美元的美国奥运会和残奥会博物馆将于4月开幕,由负责现代艺术博物馆(Museum of Modern Art)翻新项目的建筑事务所Diller Scofidio + Renfro设计。另一个将在秋天新开放的建筑是零能耗的派克斯峰顶新综合体(Pikes Peak Summit Complex),它位于最高峰达4300米的派克斯峰(Pikes Peak)上,由在新墨西哥州开采的耐候钢和砂岩包裹着,透过9米高的玻璃窗,旅客可看到雷鸟视野般的全景。如果觉得饿了,该城新兴的当地美食场所是另一个吸引人的地方:夜莺面包店(Nightingale Bread)的面包师磨制自己种植的有机谷物(大多来自科罗拉多的圣路易斯谷[San Luis Valley]),这家店位于林肯中心(Lincoln Center)——一家1948年建校的小学改造而来的新市集。Four by Brother Luck餐厅以厨师Brother Luck本人命名,他曾参加烹饪比赛节目《大厨断头台》(Chopped)和《顶级厨师》(Top Chef),餐厅的菜品灵感来自福科纳斯地区的本地美食,包括犹特人部落(Ute Tribe)的蓝色玉米面包和浆果酱(wojapi)。在最近翻新的Broadmoor度假村的菜单上,你会看到有来自弗兰特山脉(Front Range)溪流的鳟鱼。这家外墙刷着粉色涂料的意大利文艺复兴风格的度假村,盘踞在自然美景中,犹如淘金热时期狂热矿工们的美梦。

14. Krakow, Poland

14. 波兰克拉科夫

A city with a rich past focuses on new parks and curbing pollution

历史悠久,现专注于新建公园和遏制污染


Largely spared from the destruction of World War II, Poland’s second largest city has an intact medieval town center that is one of the largest in Europe. It is known for its cathedrals, Jewish history, cafe culture and rich university life, as well as oddities such as the Wieliczka salt mine, a 13th-century underground labyrinth of rooms, passageways, chapels and statues, all carved from salt. Unfortunately, Krakow has suffered from some of Europe’s worst air pollution. The Nowa Huta (New Steel Mill) district in Krakow, built in 1949 as a model Socialist settlement, once produced seven million tons of steel a year. For years, acid rain from the burning of fossil fuels and wood damaged the city’s medieval stonework. Recently, Krakow has begun to make changes to improve air quality for residents and tourists alike. In 2019, it became the first city in Poland to implement a ban on burning coal and wood. By the end of 2020, it will have deployed a fleet of electric buses throughout the most heavily polluted parts of the city. It is also opening a series of parks along tributaries of the Vistula River, like Reduta Park, Krakow’s first resident-designed communal space. Other greening initiatives, like an urban forest, are planned.

波兰第二大城市,基本没有受到“二战”的破坏,有一个完好无损的中世纪市中心,规模居欧洲之最。它以大教堂、犹太历史、咖啡馆文化和丰富的大学生活而闻名,也已一些奇特的东西著称,诸如维利奇卡盐矿(Wieliczka salt mine),那是一个13世纪的地下迷宫,由房间、通道、小教堂和盐雕雕像组成。不幸的是,克拉科夫有欧洲最严重的空气污染。新钢铁厂区(Nowa Huta)建于1949年,当时是社会主义示范居住区,曾年产钢铁700万吨。多年来,化石燃料和木材燃烧产生的酸雨破坏了城市里的中世纪石雕。最近,克拉科夫已开始做出改变,为居民和游客改善空气质量。2019年,它成为波兰第一个禁燃煤炭和木材的城市。到2020年底,它将在全市污染最严重的地区开通电动公交。它还沿着维斯瓦河(Vistula River)的支流建了一系列公园,例如克拉科夫第一个由民众设计的公共空间Reduta公园。其他绿化举措在规划中,如城市森林。

15. Jodhpur, India

15. 印度,焦特布尔

Song, dance and royal grandeur in Rajasthan's '”Blue City”

歌舞和皇室气派,就在拉贾斯坦邦的“蓝色之城”


Jodhpur, in the northwestern state of Rajasthan, remains a rustic, rough-hewn hub of art and culture at a time when many of India’s cities have been transformed by the tech industry. In February, the World Sacred Spirit Festival will descend on Jodhpur’s Mehrangarh Fort, a 15th-century fortification, museum and UNESCO World Heritage Site, bringing with it more than 200 musicians from around the world. If you can’t make it by then, don’t fret: Every fall, the Mehrangarh Fort plays host to a folk music festival where patrons have included Mick Jagger. An immersion into an India that existed before skyscrapers and call centers continues among the city’s many cobalt-blue houses (painted to reflect the rays of the sun, to signify the dweller’s superior status, to repel insects or for aesthetic appeal, depending on whom you ask) and at Umaid Bhawan Palace, an Art Deco compound that still houses the former royal family but also functions as a luxury hotel. The palace’s nightly performances of song and dance pay tribute to the Marwari people of this desert-dappled region. In July, the budget airline IndiGo announced daily nonstop flights to Jodhpur from Delhi and Ahmedabad, making the city more accessible than ever.

随着印度的许多城市被科技产业所改造,位于西北部拉贾斯坦邦的焦特布尔始终则是一个质朴而原始的艺术和文化中心。焦特布尔的梅兰加尔堡(Mehrangarh Fort)是一座15世纪的防御要塞、博物馆和联合国教科文组织世界遗产,今年2月,世界圣灵节将降临于此,届时将有来自世界各地的200多名音乐家参加。如果赶不上也不用气馁:每年秋天,梅兰加尔堡都会举办民俗音乐节,赞助人包括米克·贾格尔(Mick Jagger)。这犹如沉浸在摩天大楼和客服中心出现之前的印度,城市里有许多蓝色房子(不同的人有不同的说法,有的说涂成这样是为了反射太阳光线,表示居民的优越地位,驱虫,或者是出于好看)以及装饰艺术风的乌迈德宫(Umaid Bhawan Palace),这座建筑群内既有前皇室成员居住,又是一家豪华酒店。宫殿每晚的歌舞表演向这片沙漠斑驳地区的马尔瓦里人(Marwari)致敬。7月,廉价航空公司IndiGo宣布每天有直达航班从德里和艾哈迈达巴德飞往焦特布尔,这座城市已经实现空前的交通可达性。

16. Western Sweden

16. 瑞典西部

Hike a new trail, eat a new meal, then work it off, all (or mostly) carbon free

走一条新路,吃一顿新菜,然后运动消耗掉,全部(或大部分)不含碳


It’s hard to talk about sustainability without talking about Scandinavia. Few destinations offer as many new opportunities to witness how the region’s green goals are playing out as Sweden, which seeks to free itself of fossil fuels by 2050. Western Sweden feels like ground zero. A 44-mile-long trail recently opened between Gothenburg and the small town of Alingsas, focusing on sustainability. Train stations along the way allow you to hike it in sections, without a car. You can stop by the “zero waste” restaurant Garveriet, and have coffee and cake, or “fika,” as part of a “meet the locals” initiative. Up the coast, Ramsvik Stugby and Camping now has the Swedish travel industry’s largest solar-power generating facility, making it an emissions-free camping and cabin area. Spend your days running or hiking around the Ramsvikslandet Nature Reserve or at an “edible country table”: an outdoor dining experience in which groups forage for ingredients like wild garlic and raspberries and cook them together following a chef’s recipe (without the chef).

谈到可持续发展,很难不提到斯堪的纳维亚。很少有地方能像瑞典那样提供如此多机会见证绿色目标的实现,这里正寻求在2050年之前彻底摆脱化石燃料。瑞典西部感觉就像“地面零点”一样。最近在哥德堡和小镇阿灵索斯之间开通了一条44英里长的路线,重点就是可持续发展。沿途的火车站让你可以在不开车的情况下分段步行。你可以在“零浪费”餐厅Garveriet停留,喝杯咖啡,吃点蛋糕或“fika”,这是“结识本地人”倡议活动的一部分。在海边,拉姆斯韦克村舍&露营酒店(Ramsvik Stugby and Camping)如今拥有瑞典旅游业中规模最大的太阳能发电设施,使之成为一个无排放的露营和木屋住宿区。你可以去Ramsvikslandet自然保护区跑步或徒步消磨时间,或去感受一下“野宴餐桌”:这是一种户外就餐体验,人们一起搜寻野蒜和树莓等食材,并按照厨师给出的食谱一起烹饪(厨师不参与)。

17. Egypt

17. 埃及

Fancy new digs for King Tut and company

法老们的光鲜新居所


The Egyptians are building like the pharaohs to finish the massive and much-anticipated Grand Egyptian Museum in time for its scheduled gala opening later this year. The project, which is reported to cost $1 billion, has involved thousands of workers and nearly two decades of labor. The soaring space will be situated just over a mile from the Pyramids of Giza and contain around 100,000 objects, including more than 5,000 related to King Tutankhamun. It will join other recently inaugurated archaeological troves, including the National Museum of Egyptian Civilization and an ancient tomb of colorful frescoes in the Saqqara Necropolis. And visiting Cairo will be easier than ever, courtesy of the new Sphinx International Airport and hotels like the 366-room St. Regis Cairo, set to open in June.

埃及人正在像法老一样大兴土木,欲完成宏大且备受期待的大埃及博物馆,以赶上计划在今年晚些时候举行的盛大开幕。据报道,该项目耗资10亿美元,由数千名工人耗时近二十年建成。该博物馆将屹立于距吉萨金字塔仅一英里多的地方,容纳约10万件展品,其中有逾5000件与图坦卡门法老有关。它将是近期开放的几座考古宝库之一,其他的包括国立埃及文明博物馆和萨加拉墓地的壁画古墓。得益于新的斯芬克斯国际机场以及将于6月开业的拥有366间客房的开罗瑞吉酒店,造访开罗将比以往更加方便。

18. La Paz, Mexico

18. 墨西哥拉巴斯

In Baja, a reimagined waterfront and a sustainable sensibility

在南下加尼福尼亚,一个具有可持续性意识的城市对海滨的重新构想


Just up the coast from Cabo San Lucas is La Paz, the 250,000-person capital of Baja California Sur state and one of the region’s oldest and most dynamic cities. But unlike many of Mexico’s better-known beach towns, the La Paz area has resisted large-scale resort-style development and remained comparatively unknown to outsiders. Decades ago, local environmentalists pushed for the creation of what eventually became the expansive UNESCO Marine World Heritage protected area, a designation that aimed to preserve the coast and offshore areas, home to such rich biodiversity that the Sea of Cortez is known as the “Aquarium of the World.” Last year, La Paz passed one of the strictest single-use plastic bans in Mexico, which will begin going into effect this year. At the same time, the city has undergone a massive, multiyear renovation of its waterfront malecón, or boardwalk, which extended its length by three miles, created bike lanes and added a skate park, fountains and sculptures by prominent Mexican artists illustrating local marine life. Later this year, Grupo Habita, Mexico’s stylish boutique hotel operator, is opening its first southern Baja property, the 32-room La Casa de las Perlas, or House of Pearls, in La Paz. The hotel, which incorporates a building from the 1910s, will have a pool, spa, restaurant and “sunset bar” overlooking the malecón and sea.

在卡博圣卢卡斯(Cabo San Lucas)沿海岸往北,就是南下加利福尼亚州(Baja California Sur)的首府拉巴斯,人口25万,是该地区最古老也最具活力的城市之一。但是与墨西哥许多更有名的海边城镇不同,拉巴斯地区一直抵制大型度假村式房地产开发,相对来讲不太为外人所知。几十年前,在当地环保主义者的推动下,最终创建了现在宽阔的联合国教科文组织海洋世界遗产保护区,保护海岸及近海地区,由于拥有丰富的生物多样性,科尔特斯海(Sea of Cortez)被称作“世界水族馆”。去年,拉巴斯通过了墨西哥对一次性塑料的最严厉禁令之一,将于今年开始生效。同时,该城对海边的步行大道(malecón)用数年时间进行了大规模的翻新,将其长度延长了4.8公里,开辟了自行车道,增加了滑板公园、喷泉和雕塑作品——这些由墨西哥著名艺术家创作的作品描绘了当地的海洋生物。墨西哥时尚精品酒店运营商Grupo Habita将于今年晚些时候在拉巴斯开设拥有32个房间的La Casa de las Perlas(珍珠之家),这是该运营商在南下加尼福尼亚的首个地产项目。酒店包括一栋1910年代的建筑,将设有游泳池、水疗中心、餐厅和俯瞰大海及海边步行大道的日落酒吧。

19. Grand Isle, La.

19. 路易斯安那州,格兰德岛

Hauntingly beautiful, a barrier island may soon vanish

一座美得令人难以忘怀的壁障岛,可能很快就会消失


Louisiana’s last inhabited barrier island, Grand Isle begs an unsettling question: Does a place appear more hauntingly beautiful when you know it’s disappearing? A longtime sport and commercial fishing hub two hours south of New Orleans, this pancake-flat wisp of land seven miles long and on average a half-mile wide faces one of the world’s highest rates of relative sea level rise, and uncertain survival. Now is the time to go, while the Gulf of Mexico still washes the sands of Grand Isle State Park under blue skies dotted with cotton-puff clouds, and roseate spoonbills still take flight in a flash of pink plumage in hushed bayous and marshes best experienced by kayak. Wind-twisted trees populate the unique live oak forests known as cheniers, and in the spring — especially around April’s migratory bird festival — masses of songbirds from Central and South America as well as Mexico can drop almost literally from the sky, exhausted after their epic gulf crossing. Bottlenose dolphins often frolic alongside the boat tours offered by Calmwater Charters, which highlight the isle’s human and natural history and include a cruise-by of a vital pelican rookery, Queen Bess Island, where major habitat restoration wraps up in February 2020.

路易斯安那州最后一个有人居住的壁障岛格兰德岛,让人不禁联想到一个令人不安的问题:如果你知道它就要消失,你是否觉得它看起来更加美得令人难以忘怀?位于新奥尔良以南两个小时路程以外的这座扁平岛屿长11公里,平均宽度800米,多年来一直是一个竞技和商业垂钓中心,如今面临着世界上最高的相对海平面上升速度,前途未卜。现在正是去的时候,墨西哥湾的海水仍然冲刷着格兰德岛州立公园的沙滩,点缀蓝天的白云犹如朵朵棉花,玫瑰色琵鹭展开粉色的丰满羽翼,飞翔在幽静的海湾和沼泽上,乘皮划艇是体验这种美景的最佳方式。独一无二的常绿橡树林里长满盘根错节的树,这种森林称为“千尼尔沙岗”,在春天,尤其是四月庆祝鸟类迁徙的节日前后,大量从中美和南美以及墨西哥迁徙来的鸣禽,在经历了史诗般的跨海湾飞行后精疲力竭,几乎就像从天上掉下来一般。宽吻海豚常常跟随着Calmwater Charters公司的游船嬉戏,突显小岛上人与自然的历史,游船还会顺道前往鹈鹕重要的栖息地贝丝女王岛(Queen Bess Island),该栖息地的主要修复工程将于2020年2月完成。

20. Chow Kit, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

20. 马来西亚,吉隆坡秋杰

An underappreciated neighborhood receives a dose of fresh style and energy

被忽视的社区获得了一些新鲜感和活力


As Malaysia’s financial and political hub, Kuala Lumpur attracts international travelers on many fronts. There are the Islamic-inspired, César Pelli-designed Petronas Twin Towers, the hypnotically bloody Hindu festival Thaipusam (where devotees pierce their flesh to honor the deity Murugan) and the just-opened, multiuse Exchange 106, the tallest building in Southeast Asia. This year, however, visitors might focus on the neighborhood of Chow Kit, as the recent opening of two hotels delivers a fresh dose of style and energy to the gritty, underappreciated red-light district. The 113-room Chow Kit hotel, designed by the Brooklyn-based Studio Tack in its first project in Asia, welcomes guests with hand-textured walls, deep-tufted banquettes and layered rugs. Its handsome Chow Kit Kitchen & Bar, with reeded-glass windows, pulls in the local and international crowd with a modern Malaysian menu. Next door, its wallet-friendly sister property MoMo’s has a pared-back look: unfussy micro-rooms have concrete and combed-plaster walls and plenty of wood, while a social space called the Playground replaces the traditional lobby. Beyond, the district is home to the country’s largest fresh-produce market, Southeast Asia’s biggest Sikh temple and eclectic new restaurants like the Caribbean-influenced Joloko. Along Jalan Doraisamy, a one-way street that runs off the district’s main artery and was once a popular nightclub strip, reimagined shophouses have become The Row, an enclave of hip stores, art spaces and places to eat and drink.

作为马来西亚的金融与政治枢纽,吉隆坡在许多方面吸引着国际旅行者。这里有塞萨尔·佩里(César Pelli)设计、受伊斯兰教启发的双子塔(Petronas Twin Towers),令人沉迷的血腥印度教节日大宝森节(Thaipusam,信徒用刺入肉体的方式纪念神祇室建陀),以及刚刚开放的东南亚最高建筑106交易塔(Exchange 106)。不过,今年的游客可能会将视线聚焦在秋杰(Chow Kit)社区,近期新开张的两家酒店为这个被忽视的粗粝红灯区带来了新鲜感和活力。拥有113间客房的秋杰酒店(The Chow Kit)是布鲁克林的Studio Tack在亚洲的第一个项目,以手作纹理的墙面、拉扣软包卡座和层叠的地毯迎接宾客。秋杰厨房和酒吧(Chow Kit Kitchen & Bar)餐厅设计靓丽,使用槽纹玻璃窗,以现代马来西亚菜品吸引当地和国际人群。隔壁则是经济实惠的姐妹酒店Momo’s,它的外观简朴:利落的微型房间,刮纹灰泥面的混凝土墙,并使用大量木元素,以社交空间“游乐场”(Playground)替代传统大堂。除此之外,这里还有马来西亚最大的新鲜农产品市场、东南亚最大的锡克教寺庙和不拘一格的新餐厅,例如受加勒比海美食影响的Joloko。沿着多莱莎米路(Jalan Doraisamy),一条通向该地区主干道的单向街,也曾是一条著名的酒吧街,有全新概念的购物休闲空间The Row,容纳了潮店、艺术空间和餐饮。
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