好英语网36小时玩转米兰
APPEARANCES matter in Milan. For proof, just stroll past the sights: the majestic Gothic cathedral, the stately Teatro alla Scala opera house, the smartly dressed Milanese (yes, they’re an attraction, too). But the true charm of Italy’s most cosmopolitan city is its refusal to coast on these beautiful treasures. A few blocks from Leonardo da Vinci’s 15th-century masterpiece “The Last Supper,” an ambitious project is inching toward completion: CityLife, a new center-city neighborhood featuring a trio of dazzling, futuristic skyscrapers. And in advance of hosting the 2015 Expo, the city is already blossoming with new museums and restaurants. In Milan, Italy’s future is already on display.
外表美在米兰是一件大事。只需到几个著名景点走一趟，我们就能找到证据：庄严宏伟的哥特式大教堂、华丽辉煌的斯卡拉歌剧院，以及衣着时髦的米兰人（是的，米兰人也是此地的景观之一）。但作为意大利最国际化的城市，米兰最大的魅力在于，它拒绝坐在这些美丽的珍宝之上心满意足地混日子。距离李奥纳多·达芬奇的15世纪名画《最后的晚餐》几个街区之外，一项雄心勃勃的工程很快就要竣工：“都市生活”(CityLife)是一处建在市区的全新社区，主体建筑由三座未来主义风格的摩天大楼组成，非常吸引眼球。2015年米兰世博会还没到来，众多新颖博物馆和趣致餐馆就已在城市里处处涌现。在米兰，意大利未来已经显现。
从Giacomo Arengario饭店看到的大教堂右侧景观，该饭店位于新近开张的二十世纪博物馆内。
Friday
星期五
4:30 p.m.
下午4:30
1) DESIGN SHRINE
设计圣地
Design is a religion in Milan, so start by paying your respects at the high altar that is the Triennale Design Museum (Viale Alemagna, 6; 39-02-724-341; triennale.org). The museum, on the edge of the leafy Parco Sempione, is the first dedicated solely to Italian design. Where else could you expect to find a supersize Campari bottle beside a Brobdingnagian replica of a rainbow-hued Ferragamo sandal? A special admission rate on Thursday and Friday evenings lets you embrace another of Milan’s sacred rites, the predinner aperitivo, at the new ground-floor DesignCafe.
在米兰，设计是一种宗教。所以我们就以向圣坛——米兰设计三年展博物馆（Triennale Design Museum；地址：Viale Alemagna, 6；电话：39-02-724-341；网址：triennale.org）的致敬，开始我们的旅行。这家博物馆位于树荫浓密的Parco Sempione公园旁边，是世界第一家专门以意大利设计为主题的博物馆。除了这个地方，你还能在哪里看到特大号的金巴利(Campari)酒瓶与彩虹色菲拉格慕(Ferragamo)凉鞋的巨型复制品并肩陈列？周四和周五晚上的特价门票让你拥抱米兰的另一个神圣仪式——餐前什锦点心，地点是建在一楼的崭新饭店DesignCafe。
8:30 p.m.
晚上8:30
2) THE FIRST SUPPER
第一顿晚餐
Zucca e Melone (Via Gian Giacomo Mora, 3; 39-02-8945-5850; ristorantezuccaemelone.it) is a delightful restaurant that opened last year with a fresh farmhouse feel and charmingly absurd décor (think lime green and violet walls with chairs painted bright orange, yellow and purple). And the menu is as creative as the color scheme. Traditional strudel is reimagined as a savory appetizer with caramelized onions and taleggio cream (12.50 euros, or $17.60 at $1.41 to the euro), while tortelli stuffed with pumpkin is topped with sage butter, pecorino and a cookie crumble (14.50 euros).
“南瓜和甜瓜” 饭店（Zucca e Melone；地址：Via Gian Giacomo Mora, 3；电话：39-02-8945-5850；网址：ristorantezuccaemelone.it）是个令人倍感放松的地方。这家去年开业的餐馆有一种新鲜爽快的农舍气氛，装修风格怪诞迷人（请想象青柠色和紫罗兰色的墙壁，漆成亮橙、鹅黄和淡紫的椅子）。这里的菜单也像配色方案一样创意十足。传统的果馅卷略作修改，变成一道美味的开胃甜点，来搭配焦糖炒过的洋葱和意式塔吉欧奶油（12.50欧元，根据本文写作时欧元对美元1.41的汇率为17.60美元）。南瓜馅儿的意式小圆饺配上黄油鼠尾草、pecorino羊奶酪和饼干碎的浇头（14.50欧元）。
11 p.m.
晚上11点
3) A MAN, A PLAN, NAVIGLI
一个人的纳维利(NAVIGLI)
Take a postprandial passeggiata — it’s required — past Porta Ticinese to the glowing canals and waterside drinking dens of the Navigli neighborhood. Designed in part by Leonardo, the narrow canals were neglected for decades, but recent preservation efforts have spurred the area’s emergence as one of the city’s hottest night-life destinations. Seek out Spritz (Ripa di Porta Ticinese 9; 39-02-8339-0192; spritz-navigli.it) for the lounge’s namesake drink, an Italian classic. Then hop over to El Brellin (Alzaia Naviglio Grande, 14; 39-02-5810-1351; brellin.it) for a glass of vino in the garden, or to the cozy beer pub Al Coccio (Alzaia Naviglio Pavese, 2; no phone) for a Baladin beer. After that, it’s your call.
餐后享受一段无所事事的闲逛——这是此地的必修课程。穿过提契诺门(Porta Ticinese)，沿着漂亮的老运河，造访纳维利一带的河畔酒吧区。这些由达芬奇参与过设计的狭窄运河被人们忽视多年以后，经过近期的重修，忽然变成了米兰市最热门的夜生活去处之一。先到“细流”酒吧（Spritz；地址：Ripa di Porta Ticinese 9；电话：39-02-8339-0192；网址：spritz-navigli.it）品尝一下同名的饮品——这是意大利经典的酒精饮料之一。接下来到El Brellin酒吧（地址：Alzaia Naviglio Grande, 14；电话：39-02-5810-1351；网址：brellin.it）的花园喝杯葡萄酒，或者到专卖啤酒的舒适酒吧Al Coccio （地址：Alzaia Naviglio Pavese, 2；没有电话号码）来一瓶骑士(Baladin)牌啤酒。然后，你想干啥就干啥吧。
Saturday
星期六
10 a.m.
上午10点
4) NEW KID ON THE PIAZZA
广场上的新成员
After years of restoration, the resplendent white marble facade of Milan’s soaring Gothic cathedral, the Duomo, gleams anew. But lately, all eyes have been on its neighbor on the piazza, the Museo del Novecento (Piazza Duomo; 39-02-8844-4061; museodelnovecento.org), which opened in December in the renovated Palazzo dell’Arengario. A strikingly modern interior features a spiral ramp that whisks visitors up to the galleries, where an extensive collection of 20th-century Italian art includes works by Umberto Boccioni, Carlo Carrà and many others. The museum’s showpiece, however, is the view from the top floor, where floor-to-ceiling windows frame a stunning panorama of the Piazza Duomo.
经过几年的修缮，米兰大教堂白色的大理石外观开始重放光芒。这座壮丽的哥特式教堂坐落在大教堂广场边，但近年来，所有人的的关注中心却是教堂的隔壁邻居——二十世纪博物馆（Museo del Novecento；地址：大教堂广场；电话：39-02-8844-4061；网址：museodelnovecento.org）。这座博物馆设在翻新过的阿仁伽里奥宫里，2010年12月开业。它的内部装修非常摩登， 一条螺旋状的斜坡让观众盘旋着走向高处的展区，那里展出着翁贝托·博乔尼(Umberto Boccioni)、卡洛·卡拉(Carlo Carrà)等20世纪意大利艺术家的大量作品。但是，这座博物馆最精彩的展品却要走到顶楼才能看到：站在那里的落地玻璃窗前，你可以看到大教堂广场惊艳夺目的全景风光。
12:30 p.m.
中午12:30
5) A SICILIAN LUNCH HIT
惊喜的西西里午餐
The views are also superb from the museum’s buzzy new third-floor restaurant, Giacomo Arengario (Via Marconi, 1; 39-02-7209-3814; giacomoarengario.com) — provided you can score a table on the terrace. If not, console yourself with a cannolo at nearby Antica Focacceria San Francesco (Via San Paolo, 15; 39-02-4507-1057; afsf.it), a family-friendly cafeteria-style spot that serves up Sicilian specialties like ragù-stuffed arancine, caper-dotted caponata and thick slices of sfincione. This location, which opened in 2009, was the first outpost of the 176-year-old original in Palermo, an establishment famous for its refusal to pay pizzo (Mafia protection money).
另一个不错的观景点是博物馆三层刚开张不久的时髦餐厅Giacomo Arengario（地址：Via Marconi, 1；电话：39-02-7209-3814；网址：giacomoarengario.com）——如果你能抢到阳台座位的话。如果抢不到，就去旁边的Antica Focacceria San Francesco餐厅（地址：Via San Paolo, 15；电话：39-02-4507-1057；网址：afsf.it）吃份西西里起司卷(cannolo)来安慰自己。那是一家自助餐风格的饭馆，气氛家常亲切，供应多种西西里特色菜肴，包括豌豆碎肉馅烤丸子(ragù-stuffed arancine)、装饰着刺山柑的杂蔬茄子煲(caponata)和切片零售的西西里厚比萨(sfincione)。这家饭馆2009年才开业，但它的母公司——位于帕勒莫的同名餐馆——已经有176年的历史，米兰这家是它的第一个分店。此外，让这家老餐馆名气远播的另一个原因是它拒绝向黑手党缴纳保护费。
2 p.m.
下午2点
6) HIGH STREET ART
街头艺术
You may not be in the mood to try on couture after lunch, but there’s still reason to visit Via Montenapoleone, the main avenue of Milan’s haute fashion district. Tomorrow’s trendsetters strut past the glittering windows of Gucci, Pucci and Prada, but for the best street style, look underfoot. In a project called “Sopra il Sotto,” five of the world’s top street artists, including Shepard Fairey and Space Invader, designed 20 eye-popping manhole covers that were recently installed along the fashionable street. The colorful mosaics and cartoons smiling up from below will remain until December 2011, so watch your step.
午餐之后你估计没有兴趣试穿定制时装，但仍有充足的理由到米兰的高端时尚区蒙特拿破仑大街逛一逛。未来的时尚先锋们潇洒地走过古奇、璞琪和普拉达等品牌耀眼的橱窗，但若要找最棒的街头时尚，请看你的脚下。在一个叫做《超越最底层》(Sopra il Sotto)的艺术项目中，谢泼德·费尔雷(Shepard Fairey)、太空入侵者(Space Invader)等五位世界顶级的街头艺术家设计了20只令人瞠目结舌的井盖，刚刚安装到这条时尚大街的路面上不久。这些在地表向你微笑凝视的多彩马赛克和卡通画会一直展览到2011年的12月，所以走路的时候请注意脚下。
3:30 p.m.
下午3:30
7) NOUVEAU GELATO
时新冰淇淋
Dinner is still hours away, so swing by Il Gelato Centogusti (Piazzale Lagosta; 39-02-6900-9770; centogusti.it) for a sweet treat to tide you over. This spacious gelateria has 100 flavors to choose from, including unconventional concoctions like cream of celery and black sesame. Feeling overwhelmed? Try the newest scoop in town, Officine del Gelato (Viale Montenero, 46; 39-02-5990-4118; officinedelgelato.com), a bright little shop, opened in June, serving gelati made with natural ingredients.
距离晚餐还有好几个小时，所以就拐到Il Gelato Centogusti冰淇淋店（地址：Piazzale Lagosta；电话：39-02-6900-9770；网址：centogusti.it），用一份甜食帮你度过这个困难时期。这家空间宽敞的冰淇淋店有100多种不同口味的冰淇淋可供挑选，包括一些反传统的混合口味，比如西芹黑芝麻奶油冰淇淋。有点不能接受？那就去Officine del Gelato冰淇淋店（地址：Viale Montenero, 46；电话：39-02-5990-4118；网址：officinedelgelato.com）尝试一下本城最新的品种。这个2010年6月开业的小店轻松明快，供应天然材料制成的冰淇淋。
4:30 p.m.
下午4:30
8) ART AND DESIGN
艺术和设计
Ikea this is not. At Spazio Rossana Orlandi (Via Matteo Bandello 14/16; 39-02-467-4471; rossanaorlandi.com), every nook of the sprawling compound — a retail store, showroom and gallery — is packed with fantastical pieces of designy art and arty design. The proprietor, Ms. Orlandi, a fervent supporter of emerging designers from around the world, has curated an eclectic mix of lively pieces. Fancy an electric-blue pig statue for the front lawn (1,200 euros)? Or an embroidered deer head (8,000 euros) to hang above the fireplace?
这可不是宜家。Rossana Orlandi艺术空间（地址：Via Matteo Bandello 14/16；电话：39-02-467-4471；网址：rossanaorlandi.com） 是座规模宏大的建筑，它的每个角落——无论杂货店、陈列窗还是画廊——都堆积着充满设计感的艺术和充满艺术感的设计，每一件都是奇思异想。主人奥兰迪夫人(Ms. Orlandi)以一腔热情支持来自全球的新秀艺术家，将这里打造成了一个包罗万象的艺术大展。喜欢那个电光幻蓝的雕塑小猪，打算买去装饰你家屋前的草坪（1200欧元）？还是想买下那个刺绣鹿头（8000欧元）挂在客厅的壁炉上面？
8 p.m.
晚上8点
9) RISOTTO ROULETTE
意大利烩饭流水席
In the Lombardy region (of which Milan is the capital), rice has traditionally trumped pasta as the preferred primo, and risotto is the sumptuous specialty. For an authentic taste, take the M1 (red) metro to the Pasteur stop and head to Da Abele (Via Temperanza, 5; 39-02-261-3855), an unassuming trattoria northeast of the city center. Only three risotti are offered each night, but with the options changing daily, the dark wood tables of this locals’ favorite stay crowded. On a recent evening, the menu pitted a fragrant spinach, pear and Gorgonzola risotto against a creamy version with celeriac, bottarga and Montasio cheese (9 euros each).
在伦巴第地区（米兰是这个地区的首府），米饭一直力压意大利面，稳居当地人第一主食的位置。而意大利什锦烩饭(risotto)则是米饭中的一个豪华产品。若想尝到最正宗的什锦炒饭，就乘坐M1 （红线）地铁到巴斯德站(Pasteur)，然后直奔Da Abele餐馆（地址：Via Temperanza, 5；电话：39-02-261-3855）。这家风格质朴的餐馆位于市中心以外略偏东北的位置，每晚只供应三种炒饭，但鉴于菜单每天都不一样，在那些当地人偏爱的乌木桌椅之间还是坐满了客人。最近有个晚上增加了新品种，烩饭中放了香料、菠菜、雪梨和戈尔根朱勒干酪，还有一个更奶腻的版本，加了块根芹、腌金枪鱼卵(bottarga)和蒙塔西奥奶酪（Montasio，9欧元一份）。
10:30 p.m.
晚上10:30
10) LIQUID ARTS
液体艺术
Since you’re already far outside the ring, make an evening of it and head to Birrificio Lambrate (Via Adelchi, 5; 39-02-7063-8678; birrificiolambrate.com), Milan’s first craft brewery. You’ll know you’ve arrived when you spot an inked and pierced crowd on a narrow side street using parked cars as ersatz coasters. If you can (politely) elbow your way to the bar, order a pint of Domm, a Bavarian-style weizen, or a pale, hoppy Montestella (5 euros each). Prefer not to struggle for your tipple? The scene at the nearby Gusto Arte Vino, or GAV (Via Accademia, 56; 39-02-2890-1370; gustoartevino.it), a chic wine bar with walls adorned with art, is decidedly more subdued.
鉴于你现在已远离市中心，就到米兰第一家手工酿酒厂Birrificio Lambrate（地址：Via Adelchi, 5；电话：39-02-7063-8678；网址：birrificiolambrate.com）去享受远郊之夜吧。当你在狭窄的街边看到一群纹身穿孔的年轻人将停在路边的汽车当做当作杯垫的时候，手工酿酒厂就到了。如果你能够优雅地用双臂为自己在人群中挤出一条通路并进入酒吧，就点一大杯朵姆牌(Domm)啤酒，那是一种巴伐利亚风格的麦啤。或者来一杯酒精含量较低、泡沫丰富的的Montestella啤酒（一杯5欧元）。不想大费周章挤过人群？附近的醇香艺术葡萄酒（Gusto Arte Vino，简称GAV；地址：Via Accademia, 56；电话：39-02-2890-1370；网址：gustoartevino.it）要清净许多。那是一家别致的葡萄酒酒吧，墙上挂满了艺术品。
Sunday
星期日
9 a.m.
上午9点
11) BODY POLISH
身体抛光术
Immerse yourself in emerald and gold at the serene subterranean spa in the Bulgari Hotel (Via Privata Fratelli Gabba 7b; 39-02-805-8051; bulgarihotels.com). Arrive early for a solitary dip in the shimmering pool and an undisturbed steam in the sultry hammam, before submitting to an aromatherapy massage (120 euros). You will emerge refreshed and as polished as one of the haute jeweler’s precious gems.
在宝格丽酒店（Bulgari Hotel ；地址：Via Privata Fratelli Gabba 7b；电话：39-02-805-8051；网址：bulgarihotels.com）幽静的地下温泉浴场，墨绿和金黄的柔波让你的身体温柔地沦陷。来得早一点，就可以在土耳其浴室独享一池闪耀而奔涌的活水。接下来再享受一场芳香按摩（120欧元）。终于从浴场出来的时候，你全身焕然一新，光鲜得仿佛本地高档珠宝里的一块价值连城的宝石。
Noon
正午
12) SPACEY SPACE
古怪空间
Head north to the city limits where a former factory has been transformed into HangarBicocca (Via Privata Chiese 2; 39-02-6611-1573; hangarbicocca.it), a cavernous space bursting with mesmerizing, large-scale art installations. It’s a bit of a trek, but one worth making. The main exhibition area is a dark, hauntingly lunar-like scene dominated by Anselm Kiefer’s monumental work “The Seven Heavenly Palaces.” Around Mr. Kiefer’s seven colossal, spotlighted towers, an ever-changing exhibition has sprouted with innovative works like a melting wax sculpture, inverted scaffolding, and an enormous image of an old woman made of photosensitive grass. When you’ve reached your daily quota for wide-eyed wonderment, rehash the experience over brunch (20 euros) at HB Bistrot, the on-site cafe.
继续向北，走向城市最北端。那里你会看到由工厂厂房改成的Hangar Bicocca空间（地址：Via Privata Chiese 2；电话：39-02-6611-1573；网址：hangarbicocca.it），洞穴般的空间里到处都是大型装置艺术作品，景象如梦似幻。到那里要走挺远的一段路，但绝对值得。主展览区阴森黑暗，仿佛令人癫狂的月夜。安塞姆·基弗(Anselm Kiefer)具有里程碑意义的作品《七座天上的宫殿》(The Seven Heavenly Palaces)冷冷地俯视着这片虚空。基弗先生七个打着聚光灯的庞然大物周围，是不断变化的各种展览，陈列着各种趣怪玩意儿，诸如融化的蜡像、上下颠倒的脚手架，以及用感光植物拼成的一幅巨型老妪画像。当你感觉已完成每日奇景指标的时候，就到艺术空间的小餐馆HB Bistrot，就着一顿早午餐（20欧元）将这些见闻复习一遍。
IF YOU GO
酒店选项
Opened in 2010, Hotel Milano Scala (via dell’Orso, 7; 39-02-870-961; hotelmilanoscala.it) riffs on an opera theme, but the modern hotel’s eco-conscious efforts are no act. Doubles from 170 euros ($240).
2010年开业的米兰斯卡拉酒店（Hotel Milano Scala；地址：via dell’Orso, 7；电话：39-02-870-961；网址：hotelmilanoscala.it）里处处体现着歌剧主题，但这所摩登酒店对环保的重视却绝不是装腔作势。双人房170欧元（240美元）起。
Near the Duomo and next door to the food-and-wine emporium Peck, the art-filled Hotel Spadari al Duomo (Via Spadari, 11; 39-02-7200-2371; spadarihotel.com) may have the best location in town. Doubles from 230 euros.
充满艺术气息的斯巴达里大教堂酒店（Hotel Spadari al Duomo；地址：Via Spadari, 11；电话：39-02-7200-2371；网址：spadarihotel.com）也许是米兰最好的下榻场所。它距离大教堂不远，隔壁的Peck商场出售多种美食美酒。双人房230欧元起。
For understated luxury, nothing tops the Bulgari Hotel Milan (Via Privata Fratelli Gabba 7b; 39-02-805-8051; bulgarihotels.com). On a private street beside a botanical garden, the hotel is a calm jewel set in a bustling city. Doubles from 520 euros.
在走低调奢华路线的酒店中，米兰宝格丽酒店（Bulgari Hotel Milan；地址：Via Privata Fratelli Gabba 7b；电话：39-02-805-8051；网址：bulgarihotels.com）无人能出其右。酒店坐落在植物园附近一条幽静的街道上，仿佛忙乱都市里一颗沉静的珍宝。双人房520欧元起。